it's a bad year for the world to end.
here are some snippets about what to look forward to in the new year that will perhaps grow up to be full fledged stories all their own, some day. If the fiery Mayan apocalypse doesn't get to them first.
New Years Evolutions
Tidings of Good Will -- Bistro Europa's Chef Steven Gedra and the Nickel City Notable Christa Glenny-Seychew are joining forces for a charity event in hopes to offer assistance to the local farms that need some help keeping Buffalo's restaurants in high style with their home grown products. Locavores unite! More as this story develops...
Football and Food -- The Buffalo News reported earlier in the year that the Left Bank crew is opening an establishment on Hertel Avenue. It has recently come to light that the bar's theme is said to derive from European style soccer bars. Not sure what style of cuisine they'll employ yet, or how upscale it will be, but i'm sure they'll have no trouble packin it in come World Cup season.
Cheese Goes High Tech -- Nickel City Cheese is slated to be the first in Buffalo to start working with a new, iPad based POS system from the guys at the Falcon Tech Group. As higher ups at Falcon Tech put it: "We think this system can and will be a big hit with Buffalo area restaurants due to its ingenuity (all wireless/web based back end/online ordering, etc..) and the fact that the price point is almost 50% of a comparable system from Micros or Aloha." Check out how it works here, it actually looks pretty awesome.
Fat Bob's Changes Barbecue Covered Hands -- Tony Piccione, the owner of the beloved Buffalo BBQ joint has in fact, already retired, leaving the business in the care of his nephew Patrick Ryan. Maybe as his first order of business, he'll dim the lights in there a bit. This is Buffalo, we're not used to so much light.
Into the Mix -- The old location of the Royale Pheasant on Forest Avenue, across from the Richardson Complex, is playing host to a new establishment simply titled "Mix." The bar is said to be themed around a cocktail list heavy on the mixology. Calling all Tom Cruises...
Clean Slate -- Word on the street is that Vera Pizzeria has, in the short while it's been open, paid off the loan it was supposed to take five years to pay off. Five YEARS. Congratulations, Vera crew. Way to kick off what should be an excellent first year.
P.S., anyone interested in starting a pool on whether or not the SLA gives Cantina Loco, NoNoo Ramen, or French Quarter Cafe their liquor licenses before the sky rolls back like a scroll and the moon turns the color of blood?
Thursday, December 29, 2011
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Setting the Record Straight: An Interview with Mike Andrzejewski
A couple weeks ago I made a post here speculating on Cantina Loco's delays, based on conflicting information I was receiving. It seemed to rouse the frustrations of Loco's Mike Andrzejewski, who very rightly pointed out that instead of mucking up the internet with my hare-brained theories, he was available to answer questions if I'd but direct any to him.
So, a change of shorts later, I did.
The following is an interview conducted with Mike A. via e-mail.
I very much appreciate his taking the time to participate in this exercise -- professing to be not much of a computer guy as it is, and having already had to contend with giving an interview with BuffaloEats this past week, I am doubly grateful for his efforts.
I begin, naturally, with the issue of the liquor license....
=================================================================
So, a change of shorts later, I did.
The following is an interview conducted with Mike A. via e-mail.
I very much appreciate his taking the time to participate in this exercise -- professing to be not much of a computer guy as it is, and having already had to contend with giving an interview with BuffaloEats this past week, I am doubly grateful for his efforts.
I begin, naturally, with the issue of the liquor license....
=================================================================
DR: What information can you tell us about the liquor license delays or any problems you may have had with the SLA while trying to open Cantina Loco?
MA: The entire process has been torturous. Everything started off well enough and deteriorated quickly. When filling out the original application I made one somewhat honest misrepresentation and a major oversight in reporting our location in reference to other licensed restaurants. Although it was unintentional, the powers that be felt I was less than honest, and we had to begin the process over, with a second application, correct information and legal documents. It is now pending and we’re hoping it will be accepted.
DR: I reported a couple weeks ago that I heard that Cantina Loco had received the liquor license. Two prominent industry associates of mine alerted me separately, and considering what I know about them, I had no reason to doubt them as sources. Any idea why they may have had what appears to be mistaken information?
MA: There is nobody out there who has any information about licensing prior to the actual license being approved and given to the principals, or denied and listed as inactive., anybody who claims to have anything more in the way of information is frankly full of shit. And anyone can check the status of an application in the SLA website Public Query section.
DR: Have there been any other delays?
MA: Some delays are always expected when doing a project like this; we ended up making some changes in our original plans, and ended up with more work and expense with things like HVAC and mechanical improvements.
DR: Is the dining area complete yet?
MA: Right now the dining room is 96% complete. Kyle Mackewicz, my partner designed most of it. It’s really great.
DR: How are you describing the decor?
MA: Very warm and comfortable, yet very unique and contemporary at the same time. Great lighting and a killer bar. The bar top is an interpretation of classic Day of the Dead art style by my tattoo artist Derrick Hendrickson. Reproduced to about 35 feet long. The windows give a panoramic view of Allen and Elmwood, and that is one of the most vibrant cityscapes in Buffalo.
DR: Will you maintain the take out window after the full opening, or will that be absorbed into the rest of the floor plan?
MA: The take out area will remain an important part of our plan; we can serve customers with takeout more efficiently, while causing less congestion/confusion in the bar & dining room.
DR: What has been the response to the food so far?
MA:Truthfully we've had some mixed responses to the food, a lot of good, some bad, some justifiably so. Customers expect a lot more from us, and we really take honest criticism to heart and try to improve our food every day. Sometimes though, I think that there is an little too much self-serving bullshit out there, and although I know there's room for improvement some people take themselves way to seriously, whether they have ever actually accomplished anything or spend their time just bitching really remains to be seen. I’ll do my very best to provide the best food I can, if someone really doesn't like it - don't return, It may not be for everyone and I'm all right with that. I'm not all right with some tool or tool-ess (is that a word?) telling everyone that they're from (fill in the city, usually L.A. or N.Y.) and they KNOW Mexican, sushi, steak or whatever. Believe me I’ve had some real shit there in your town too, both food and service.
DR: I’ve heard and seen some things about the menu that suggest not simply Mexican food, but Mexican fusion. What influences are you bringing to the table?
MA: The style of food is just going to strive to taste good. I'm sure there will be some fusing of flavors and techniques, but not a real conscious or cloying effort to do so. Obviously Spanish / New World flavors and ideas will prevail, but not really fancy or overly intellectualized. More emphasis on simple and good.
DR: What makes a Polish guy from Buffalo NY consistently search for and seek out things that are "different" like Sushi or Mexican or even classic French style food preparations? What makes you go beyond traditional preparation and into new territory?
MA: I'm often asked about how a Polish guy ends up making sushi etc. I guess the only answer is really that I’m American. I really like to eat, and I eat and cook what I find most exciting. The common thread in all this is really just a love of food. I am thankful every day that I found something I truly love to do. I know that sounds corny but that’s it. I’m a cook, and there isn't much to me after that. I think maybe I just expect more out of myself and my profession, and work at it every day.
DR: How do you see Buffalonians as a "food audience?" Do you think that we are more willing or less willing to try different or new things than your average American (whatever that means)?
MA: The Buffalo food "audience” is overall, from what I can tell, really a reflection of Buffalo as a whole. Somewhat cautious, not really fooled by trends or fashion if it doesn’t make sense to them. Economically I think people here work very hard for their income and expect to be treated well if they choose to give it to someone. I definitely know expectations have risen over the last ten or so years, which is good! I have been lucky enough to work in places that gave me the opportunity to offer a little bit more unusual or unique products, and know it's kind of what people expect from my cooking. I really welcome that.
DR: Given the trends in the foodie world and the inability to grow avocados in Buffalo, how local and regional do you plan on making your menu at Loco? Can you do this and keep the price point where it is (low to very moderate) on the take-out menu?
MA: In a perfect world we would all get our food from the farm down the street. It doesn’t happen here, especially in certain cuisine / styles. I’ll get the best tasting things at the best prices I can. Period. Face it, if someone can bring me great cilantro and peppers for a couple of months, I certainly give my money to him, but in January it’s coming from far away. Just the way it is. I'm not gonna source, octopus, or tuna or reasonably priced skirt steak at Elmwood Bidwell market. So FedEx remains my most useful kitchen tool.
DR: We have an idea of what you'll be doing with the food at Cantina Loco, but what can you tell us about what you're doing with the bar? Will it be higher end? Will it focus on cocktails? Or will it be a beers and shots type of place?
MA: I'm committed to keep prices to a really affordable level, no thoughts of big check averages or fine dining. We want to provide a place that guys who work in restaurants can afford to eat after work. And were going to stay open later a few nights and offer Restaurant Workers Discounts and drink Specials. The bar itself for the most part will be also really reasonable. Although we will offer some really high end Tequilas, and Mescals, as well as flights and specialty cocktails. But if you’re gonna want a stiff one after a rough Saturday service this will be the place to go to. Good beers in frozen mugs, good bartenders, clean bathrooms.
DR: Do you have any comments you'd like to direct to people who are complaining that the name "Cantina Loco" is not proper Spanish?
MA: As far as the name goes, Cantina Loco not being proper Spanish ... Really? No Shit? Guess what- neither am I- or are most of you. It's a name that most of us dumb gringos understand and is purposely a tongue in cheek chuckle at ourselves.... If you want to pick a name, work for about thirty years, put everything you own into your businesses, and work twelve plus hours a day. Buy a Restaurant. But when some asshole says that things like the spelling of Cantina Loco "represent everything that's wrong with Buffalo" and yes someone said that, they can go screw themselves. If the lack of correct language etiquette bothers you, then drive down Delaware.
DR: You have a steakhouse in the works as well as Loco, so, by summer, you will be running a raw seafood joint, a Mexican place, and a steakhouse...what's next, Andrejewski's Ethiopian? How hard is it to move thematically between these concepts without going crazy? Is there something about food and the art of making it that transcends all of these classifications and binaries that we attempt to label restaurants or chefs or cuisines with?
MA: Sorry Ethiopian doesn’t do it for me. But why such diversity? I don’t think I've ever planned it that way, it just grew. Generally speaking, cooking and eating different foods and styles of cuisine seems somewhat natural to me. Although I won’t ever pretend to be an expert in anything. I think that if you approach food from a very basic level, beginning with good techniques, and being honest about your skills what you can do, and practicing what needs improvement is the starting point. Try to get a little bit of understanding where the culture of any given cuisine comes from makes you appreciate it more. Looking for better ingredients, respecting what they are, and learning how they react and how you can manipulate them without destroying what makes them good in the first place. Be critical of what you make, and think about how you can improve it. (It’s almost never "good enough") For God's sake TASTE EVERYTHING! There are no secrets or alchemy in anything we do, mostly common sense. Hard work. Some Chef's like Susur Lee or Robuchon or Jose Andres may have magic but for us it's really just about trying a little harder and getting a lot of joy out of making good food for our guests.
DR: Is there anything we haven't covered that you'd like to touch on? I’d like to open the floor to give you a chance to speak your mind.
MA: All in all I've been really fortunate to have worked for the people I’ve learned from and very happy that I’ve been as accepted by the dining public in Buffalo. I get quite a bit of publicity and notoriety and try not to take it for granted. Most people here are really appreciative of our efforts and that’s really rewarding. I'm really looking forward to the Lafayette project; I truly think it will change Downtown on a huge level. I'm actually honored to be a part of it. There are many really great things happening here, I just hope everyone involved knows when to get out of the way and let Buffalo reach its potential.
FIN.
FIN.
Monday, December 19, 2011
travelogue
it is 4:47 am.
i get back to my hotel room.
i sneak in as quietly as possible. cigarette smoke practically billowing off of me, the smell, the unsteady steps, even the faint glow of the cell phone should on their own all have been enough to disturb my restless nephew and my sister from the ersatz sleep into which they've lightly settled.
i feel like a cartoon mouse, tiptoeing across the room so as not to rouse the waking ire of a slumberous cartoon cat.
i shed my topcoat, shove its reeking mass into the cleft between bed and wall, and collide into my bed, as noiseless as a creaky hotel mattress will allow.
i have just come from a 24 hour franchise diner across the parking lot, and the taste of a texas toast breakfast sandwich lingers, and will linger, in my mouth until morning. sausage from god-knows-where-or-what-animal. molten plastic american cheese. it is cheap, greasy, its eggs slightly overcooked. disgusting. i relish it. i want the taste of mayonnaise in it, but it doesn't occur to me to ask.
i sit at the counter and i drink regular coffee with it, because being this sauced, it won't matter either way.
the waitress is five nothing, rail thin. her hat and her uniform make her look like an awkward scarecrow's daughter. her accent places her as being from somewhere in Hickville, on the banks of the Hick River, in Hickansas. i make suitably awkward conversation with her. i note that she is working a crappy shift. i try to signal that i too, am in this industry. i am not sure she catches on, but most likely she simply does not care. she is not at all my type, but i find myself trying to find some way to flirt with her, if i can. it occurs to me that she is probably banging the cook, so i lay off. she reminds me of someone from home, a little bit.
i drink my coffee.
she gives me my check, and it is under $5.
on the back, a line next to "you have been served by:" bears her cursive scrawl: "Spud." i think: maybe i am too drunk, and i'm reading this wrong. perhaps i am too drunk, but i am not mistaken.
i wonder what her real name is, and how she got tagged with such a potato-y nickname.
i find it adorable, but say nothing and just keep pouring coffee into my mouth.
i only have $10, and i leave it all.
i mean, her name is Spud.
that's worth at least a $5 tip.
i leave.
i cross the parking lot.
i sneak into my hotel room. the electric lock is not quiet.
it is 4:47 am.
i want nothing more than to write about my shitty breakfast sandwich, as if it were unique and momentous, and about my weirdly cute hick waitress.
but i don't.
i crash into bed, and i don't write for days.
i get back to my hotel room.
i sneak in as quietly as possible. cigarette smoke practically billowing off of me, the smell, the unsteady steps, even the faint glow of the cell phone should on their own all have been enough to disturb my restless nephew and my sister from the ersatz sleep into which they've lightly settled.
i feel like a cartoon mouse, tiptoeing across the room so as not to rouse the waking ire of a slumberous cartoon cat.
i shed my topcoat, shove its reeking mass into the cleft between bed and wall, and collide into my bed, as noiseless as a creaky hotel mattress will allow.
i have just come from a 24 hour franchise diner across the parking lot, and the taste of a texas toast breakfast sandwich lingers, and will linger, in my mouth until morning. sausage from god-knows-where-or-what-animal. molten plastic american cheese. it is cheap, greasy, its eggs slightly overcooked. disgusting. i relish it. i want the taste of mayonnaise in it, but it doesn't occur to me to ask.
i sit at the counter and i drink regular coffee with it, because being this sauced, it won't matter either way.
the waitress is five nothing, rail thin. her hat and her uniform make her look like an awkward scarecrow's daughter. her accent places her as being from somewhere in Hickville, on the banks of the Hick River, in Hickansas. i make suitably awkward conversation with her. i note that she is working a crappy shift. i try to signal that i too, am in this industry. i am not sure she catches on, but most likely she simply does not care. she is not at all my type, but i find myself trying to find some way to flirt with her, if i can. it occurs to me that she is probably banging the cook, so i lay off. she reminds me of someone from home, a little bit.
i drink my coffee.
she gives me my check, and it is under $5.
on the back, a line next to "you have been served by:" bears her cursive scrawl: "Spud." i think: maybe i am too drunk, and i'm reading this wrong. perhaps i am too drunk, but i am not mistaken.
i wonder what her real name is, and how she got tagged with such a potato-y nickname.
i find it adorable, but say nothing and just keep pouring coffee into my mouth.
i only have $10, and i leave it all.
i mean, her name is Spud.
that's worth at least a $5 tip.
i leave.
i cross the parking lot.
i sneak into my hotel room. the electric lock is not quiet.
it is 4:47 am.
i want nothing more than to write about my shitty breakfast sandwich, as if it were unique and momentous, and about my weirdly cute hick waitress.
but i don't.
i crash into bed, and i don't write for days.
Tuesday, December 13, 2011
grist -- The Eights, no more.
a few days ago, the above post showed up on the DiningRumor Facebook Page, courtesy, obviously of Kevin O'Connell, Jr., son of famed local personality Kevin O'Connell, and chef at O'Connell's American Bistro. the post was the body of a listing which was found here on craigslist.org, but has since been removed by its author.
you might remember this post, from October, in which i mentioned that O'Connell had been in talks with the ownership at The Eights Bistro. It seems he remembered it too, as that is what he's apparently referencing. I held onto the post for a few days, not being certain this unnamed restaurant was really referencing the Bistro we all know and love for its often creative vegan and vegetarian offerings.
thanks to the info from a rumormonger/industry associate who took some initiative to get to the bottom of things, we're left with no doubt: The Eights is finito.
some things to consider: the craigslist listing is an ad for restaurant space -- the business itself is not for sale, so this is a real estate ad. the next business to show up there likely won't be affiliated or connected with the Eights, unless that's part of their business plan.
also, that the ad has been removed already is pretty interesting. apparently, in the last four days, there's been enough interest in the post to warrant its removal. i'm sure it's been snapped up, and i'm keeping my ears open. i wonder: how soon could we see that place flip? the availability of the space begins New Years day, but it's unrealistic to expect anything up and running that quickly.
let's just hope it doesn't stay empty.
Tuesday, December 6, 2011
...and the rumors mill about...
How do we not have snow on the ground? It wouldn't be the first time we've gone without a white christmas, but negligable snowfall -- the kind that doesn't even stick -- is not the kind of thing we've all grown to love and expect at this time of year. Hmm, perhaps there's really something to this global warming stuff, but we're far from a tropical paradise on this latitude. i think we're all just waiting for the other shoe to drop. isn't this how all the great snow-ins of the last ten years started? while you're all waiting, here's some news.
Cantina Loco- again? -- yes, again. while i reported not so long ago that Loco had its license, a second round of reports -- misinformation? -- has come back to my ears which says that this is indeed not the case. which is strange, because it seems as if some folks at Loco had been disseminating contradictory stories. I've heard a tentative date of something like mid-December for Loco's open, and this was after i'd heard that the license was actually not yet in, as opposed to my first report. Let this be a lesson to you: this is just the way these things go. My thoughts are these: it is entirely possible the liquor license is, if not in hand, then in the mail. I am disinclined to believe the initial report was wrong, but Loco for one reason or another, can't open yet. It also says something that an individual that Loco's hired has in the meantime, been working at SeaBar -- i take it to mean they're close. Really close. Often it's the most minor of things that can keep a restaurant from opening. after a quick visit there, what i'd overheard was that it is a further construction delay in the dining room. if the interior of the place turns out half as cool as their sign indicates it might be, i say take your time and do it right.
Cozumel -- the question no one seemed to ask -- when i'd first heard Cantina Loco was a Mexican/Tequila bar opening on the corner of Elmwood and Allen, my initial thought was...isn't there already a Mexican/Tequila bar, like, a half a block away? Seemed like a weird business move, but knowing that Andrzejewski was involved, i think people took it on faith that Loco would be of such great quality there was nothing to worry about, even from a long standing Elmwood mainstay like Cozumel. or, perhaps, the guys at Loco knew something the rest of us didn't. It seems Cozumel is in its last throes, and has been showing signs that it is facing an imminent but unspecified closing date. Apparently, in fact, it has been closed the last few days, though i haven't been that way recently enough to check. it is supposed to be opening back up today (we'll see) but despite that rumor, a mexican joint that has run out of the mexican basics, and can't pay their employees doesn't have long...especially when that monster opens down the street...
'Hucklebottles' -- okay, okay, i know that's not what the restaurant is going to be called...but if it is, i want royalties. a few more bits of info have come down the pipe since the last post. what i've been told is that Tutu's restaurant concept involves some variation on the noodle bar model. As at Hucklebuckets, the money half of 'Hucklebottles' enterprise will again be Scott Weinstein, and apparently they are looking for a move to a city location, perhaps to provide for them a customer base that a suburban location couldn't. while i am not at all certain what location they've had in mind -- things tend to get garbled in the game of drunken telephone that we play in the service industry -- it sounds as if the 'Hucklebottles' guys have been looking at the old Blu Martini location, on the corner of Main and Goodell. to that i say well done -- the facility looks great, and that block of Main street could use decent place to eat.
Cantina Loco- again? -- yes, again. while i reported not so long ago that Loco had its license, a second round of reports -- misinformation? -- has come back to my ears which says that this is indeed not the case. which is strange, because it seems as if some folks at Loco had been disseminating contradictory stories. I've heard a tentative date of something like mid-December for Loco's open, and this was after i'd heard that the license was actually not yet in, as opposed to my first report. Let this be a lesson to you: this is just the way these things go. My thoughts are these: it is entirely possible the liquor license is, if not in hand, then in the mail. I am disinclined to believe the initial report was wrong, but Loco for one reason or another, can't open yet. It also says something that an individual that Loco's hired has in the meantime, been working at SeaBar -- i take it to mean they're close. Really close. Often it's the most minor of things that can keep a restaurant from opening. after a quick visit there, what i'd overheard was that it is a further construction delay in the dining room. if the interior of the place turns out half as cool as their sign indicates it might be, i say take your time and do it right.
Cozumel -- the question no one seemed to ask -- when i'd first heard Cantina Loco was a Mexican/Tequila bar opening on the corner of Elmwood and Allen, my initial thought was...isn't there already a Mexican/Tequila bar, like, a half a block away? Seemed like a weird business move, but knowing that Andrzejewski was involved, i think people took it on faith that Loco would be of such great quality there was nothing to worry about, even from a long standing Elmwood mainstay like Cozumel. or, perhaps, the guys at Loco knew something the rest of us didn't. It seems Cozumel is in its last throes, and has been showing signs that it is facing an imminent but unspecified closing date. Apparently, in fact, it has been closed the last few days, though i haven't been that way recently enough to check. it is supposed to be opening back up today (we'll see) but despite that rumor, a mexican joint that has run out of the mexican basics, and can't pay their employees doesn't have long...especially when that monster opens down the street...
'Hucklebottles' -- okay, okay, i know that's not what the restaurant is going to be called...but if it is, i want royalties. a few more bits of info have come down the pipe since the last post. what i've been told is that Tutu's restaurant concept involves some variation on the noodle bar model. As at Hucklebuckets, the money half of 'Hucklebottles' enterprise will again be Scott Weinstein, and apparently they are looking for a move to a city location, perhaps to provide for them a customer base that a suburban location couldn't. while i am not at all certain what location they've had in mind -- things tend to get garbled in the game of drunken telephone that we play in the service industry -- it sounds as if the 'Hucklebottles' guys have been looking at the old Blu Martini location, on the corner of Main and Goodell. to that i say well done -- the facility looks great, and that block of Main street could use decent place to eat.
Saturday, November 26, 2011
hear no gossip, see no gossip, speak no gossip - Rumor's Mill #3
Well.
It's the end of November. We've all glutted ourselves with a fantastic Thanksgiving feast, enjoyed the company of friends and family, and are looking forward to doing it all again with more fanfare in hopefully cozier and even cheerier Yuletide season that is headed our way.
Or, if you're like me, you miss the sun, dread the grey days full of snow, and wish you could hibernate until the next equinox.
either way, Season's Greetings.
i'm sure my absence has been a bit conspicuous, and to tell the truth i feel a bit guilty about that. this blog started with a pop of promotion by local food bloggers, buffalospree.com, and even a mention by the buffalo news, only to have me leave you in the dark in these darkening days of oncoming winter. my apologies.
that said, its been all i can do to wake up with enough time to watch the sun peter out, or find much worthwhile for which to leave the house, which sadly means the gossip is flowing like molasses. Or at least my part in promoting it, anyway. that isn't to say a few things haven't crossed my radar.
TRUFFLE DINNERS - what i heard - Awhile back i wrote a blurb about the dueling truffle dinners, one led by Bistro Europa's Steven Gedra, with the help of Mike Andrejewski held at SeaBar, and the other, a Dinner With Danger Event at Torches. The politics of the dueling dinners was the focus of the write-up, and while dates have long passed, the drama still resounds. the Gedra/Andrejewski truffle dinner went off with more than a few hitches, as i understand it, but to great success nonetheless. with the aid of Chefs James Roberts (Park Country Club) and Bruce Wieszala (Carmelo's) the Europa/SeaBar crew, et. al. turned out what i hear to be a masterpiece of a dining event.
the Dinner With Danger Truffle Dinner Event at Torches, scheduled within a day of the Europa/SeaBar offering, in fact did not go off as planned. while i don't have specific details, sources seem to suggest that the event was pulled by Chef J.J. Richert himself, so as to avoid the appearance that the Torches truffle dinner was a direct and personal challenge leveled at Gedra and associates. Sources indicate, however, that a private truffle feast was held quietly at Torches with around a dozen or so guests and was neither advertised nor open to the public.
BRAINSTORMING CHEF - what was seen - Chef Tutu Inthalasy of Hucklebuckets seems to hope to be opening a new restaurant at some point in the future. if you're in the industry and you don't know his cooking, you know his name; and if you don't know his name, you're sure to know his face. Whether the restaurant is closer to concept or reality at this stage in the game, i truly couldn't say, but he was recently sighted at Vera by an industry contact of mine collecting "distinctive looking bottles for glassware." you're guess is as good as mine. Hucklebottles, perhaps? all joking aside, i'd be interested to see what comes of Tutu's endeavors...
ANYBODY GOT A COUPLE MILLION? - what they say - i've heard it from several sources, but i don't think a "for sale" sign's been hung, yet. Nick Kotrides (Toro, Faherty's, Empire Grill) seems to be looking to get out of the restaurant business. at least as far as Elmwood avenue is concerned. Apparently Nick has been toying with the idea of selling both Faherty's and Toro (no word on whether or not he'd like to keep Empire, on Hertel). the catch is that they both come as a package -- splitting up the ownership is impossible, especially considering that the two locations seem to share a basement. the figure Mr. Kotrides seems to have in his head is a cool $2 million, so if any of you investors out there are looking for an easy cash cow, the Toro/Faherty's duo might just be up your alley. Just do me a favor and don't clean house, they've got some of my favorite people working there.
that's all for now.
stay tuned, i hope not to be out of touch so long during this dreadfully delightful season. I'm hoping to have a "whatever happened to...?" article up down the road, not to mention some cool buffalo culture and dining projects in the works as well.
till next time.
It's the end of November. We've all glutted ourselves with a fantastic Thanksgiving feast, enjoyed the company of friends and family, and are looking forward to doing it all again with more fanfare in hopefully cozier and even cheerier Yuletide season that is headed our way.
Or, if you're like me, you miss the sun, dread the grey days full of snow, and wish you could hibernate until the next equinox.
either way, Season's Greetings.
i'm sure my absence has been a bit conspicuous, and to tell the truth i feel a bit guilty about that. this blog started with a pop of promotion by local food bloggers, buffalospree.com, and even a mention by the buffalo news, only to have me leave you in the dark in these darkening days of oncoming winter. my apologies.
that said, its been all i can do to wake up with enough time to watch the sun peter out, or find much worthwhile for which to leave the house, which sadly means the gossip is flowing like molasses. Or at least my part in promoting it, anyway. that isn't to say a few things haven't crossed my radar.
TRUFFLE DINNERS - what i heard - Awhile back i wrote a blurb about the dueling truffle dinners, one led by Bistro Europa's Steven Gedra, with the help of Mike Andrejewski held at SeaBar, and the other, a Dinner With Danger Event at Torches. The politics of the dueling dinners was the focus of the write-up, and while dates have long passed, the drama still resounds. the Gedra/Andrejewski truffle dinner went off with more than a few hitches, as i understand it, but to great success nonetheless. with the aid of Chefs James Roberts (Park Country Club) and Bruce Wieszala (Carmelo's) the Europa/SeaBar crew, et. al. turned out what i hear to be a masterpiece of a dining event.
the Dinner With Danger Truffle Dinner Event at Torches, scheduled within a day of the Europa/SeaBar offering, in fact did not go off as planned. while i don't have specific details, sources seem to suggest that the event was pulled by Chef J.J. Richert himself, so as to avoid the appearance that the Torches truffle dinner was a direct and personal challenge leveled at Gedra and associates. Sources indicate, however, that a private truffle feast was held quietly at Torches with around a dozen or so guests and was neither advertised nor open to the public.
BRAINSTORMING CHEF - what was seen - Chef Tutu Inthalasy of Hucklebuckets seems to hope to be opening a new restaurant at some point in the future. if you're in the industry and you don't know his cooking, you know his name; and if you don't know his name, you're sure to know his face. Whether the restaurant is closer to concept or reality at this stage in the game, i truly couldn't say, but he was recently sighted at Vera by an industry contact of mine collecting "distinctive looking bottles for glassware." you're guess is as good as mine. Hucklebottles, perhaps? all joking aside, i'd be interested to see what comes of Tutu's endeavors...
ANYBODY GOT A COUPLE MILLION? - what they say - i've heard it from several sources, but i don't think a "for sale" sign's been hung, yet. Nick Kotrides (Toro, Faherty's, Empire Grill) seems to be looking to get out of the restaurant business. at least as far as Elmwood avenue is concerned. Apparently Nick has been toying with the idea of selling both Faherty's and Toro (no word on whether or not he'd like to keep Empire, on Hertel). the catch is that they both come as a package -- splitting up the ownership is impossible, especially considering that the two locations seem to share a basement. the figure Mr. Kotrides seems to have in his head is a cool $2 million, so if any of you investors out there are looking for an easy cash cow, the Toro/Faherty's duo might just be up your alley. Just do me a favor and don't clean house, they've got some of my favorite people working there.
that's all for now.
stay tuned, i hope not to be out of touch so long during this dreadfully delightful season. I'm hoping to have a "whatever happened to...?" article up down the road, not to mention some cool buffalo culture and dining projects in the works as well.
till next time.
Tuesday, November 1, 2011
An interview with Corey and Cheryl Kley, the new owners of the Rue Franklin
Corey and Cheryl Kley were kind enough to sit down with ol' Dining Rumor for interview, to set the record straight on their recent purchase of the Rue Franklin, the paragon of Buffalo's fine dining establishments.
What follows is my transcription of a recorded interview with the couple. Spelling errors and tempermental capitalizations galore. Enjoy.
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DR: How did you get started in the service industry, and how did you come to the Rue?
Co: We're both from Buffalo, North Tonawanda/City of Tonawanda. Me personally, I started dishwashing when I was 15 I think, at an old place that my neighbor owned. Within a couple of months moved from dishwasher to making salads or plating food. And that was pretty much it for me, after that. A friend of mine that i worked with had an in at Warren's with Mark Warren, got me an interview there, and I ended up getting a job when I was 16 or 17, and after that, that was pretty much all i was going to do for the rest of my life. Mark showed me what it was to be fine dining and a restaurateur. I went to Paul Smith's College after high school, and had the joy of going to France through school, and getting school credit which pretty much can't be beat. I fell in love with France then, and came back home, spent a couple months down in Florida, came back to Buffalo, and worked for Mark again at Zuzon's, where I met my wife, where she was serving. After that I worked at a couple places I'd rather not mention (laughs)...and then i found my home at the Rue, and I've been here for 8 years now. And this is exactly the place I wanted to be. And it was a no-brainer to purchase this.
Ch: I think i started in restaurants when i was about 16, started out as a hostess. And then throughout the years I've worked at, i don't know how many different restaurants in Buffalo, serving, hosting, foodrunning, bussing tables, cocktailing, and then, like my husband had mentioned, we met along the way. It was about ten years ago, and i guess the rest is history. we're here now, ten years later, working together, owning, so it's been nice.
DR: Did you fall into the Rue separately, did one of you bring the other along? was it a 'package deal'?
Co: Of course it was a package deal! this place has to be a husband and wife team, i think. it seems to work out. it's worked out for the past 40 years, I'm sure it'll work out for the next 40.
Ch: for some reason i always kind of figured we would end up here, I'm not really sure how that happened. It was just, like (Corey always says), a natural progression, taking over.
DR: How important do you think it was for former owners Joel and DeeDee Lippes to pass this place on to another husband and wife team? was it a priority for them, do you think?
Co: I don't want to say it was a priority, for a husband and wife team, i just think, I've never had a partner in business, and I've heard nothing but bad things about partners in business. i think it's a little bit easier when the partners are under one roof. was it overly important that they sell to a husband and wife? in the long run, i don't really think so, but i think it was a very natural fit.
DR: Having seen it done firsthand, and being a husband and wife team, how do you think that relationship contributes to the success of the Rue?
Co: i think it just opens up communication. neither of us hold back, because we have the husband and wife bond, when there's something wrong, or something's not right -- or something IS right -- it's an immediate reaction.
DR: I've worked for some people that have been husband and wife teams in the past that haven't worked out -- what play does the quality of the relationship have in running the business?
Ch: i think you have to know when to put the relationship first, and when to put the business first. there's times when it's important, and you might be stressed out, but you have things you need to do and you just do them.
Co: i was just thinking that every restaurant I've worked in that has been worthwhile has been a husband and wife team. and of course everyone has their moment when the relationship carries over to the business, i guess, but you try to keep those few and far between. i think in the long run it just works out.
Ch: you have to have a strong relationship to start out with though
Co: exactly
DR: how does your relationship frame the way you approach coming to work, as far staff and even clientele is considered?
Co: At least from my approach, i love coming to work. one common complaint in the kitchen is that you don't get to see your wife or your kids or your family; i don't have that problem, now. and how does that relate to the rest of the staff? i actually think its slightly more positive, its relationships, right? its slightly easier to trust, or for the staff to trust you, knowing what you have invested. Not just a partnership where you have money invested, this is in all honesty our life. we've moved in upstairs. this is just what we're doing. i think that it reflects on the quality that we're putting out and the staff is reassured that we're not here to drain the business and move on in ten years. The next 40 years is what we're looking at. i hope in 40 years we're sitting down with the next couple, or the next owner, asking the same questions.
DR: It's no secret Cheryl has a bun in the oven...
Ch: it's out there
Co: there's not much hiding it
Ch: yeah, he's here.
Co: it is going to be a boy, at least that's what the doctors tell us, he is due in late December.
DR: well, that's comin up!
Co: exactly, but we're excited! of course everything had to happen at once. we had to get a restaurant, move, and have a baby all at the same time! But i think, what we've been talking about, in ten years, we'll look back and say 'How the hell did we do it?'
DR: do you have a plan for how you are going to handle it? is it a day at a time?
Co: no, we have a tentative plan. Cheryl will be stepping off the floor during the month of December. she'll still be here during the day, answering phones and doing bookwork and things like that. Setting the staff up, for the evening. And then we have a very very strong support staff of servers and bussers out in the front that have been here forever, and can easily fill the void and Dee Dee will be coming back for a little bit, during the early part of December. And then there's be a new face around for the second part of December, and then after that the baby will be down here. in the corner someplace? (laughs) I don't know. We haven't worked out the logistics of that, but he will be down here. And then we will have a nanny in the evening when Cheryl's back on the floor.
DR: You're pretty much destined to have an industry involved kid, then, huh?
Co: (laughs) exactly. Well. he could embrace it, or he could rebel against it.
DR: At what point did you know that the Rue was some place you wanted to be involved with on the level that you are now?
Co: I'm not sure when that happened. I can tell you that it took me about three days to know that I was not going to be working any place else and be living in Buffalo.
DR: Why is that?
Co: Why? Because on day three, Joel was teaching me for the second time how to cook mushrooms properly. You know what I mean? He just had that level of quality that he refused to budge on, and I knew I was not going to be working any place else. I'm sure that does exist at other places, but this was the place for me. I knew that almost instantly. When did I come home and say I wanted to own it? I'm sure that happened at some point.
Ch: I think it's always been a running joke, even with Joel and Dee Dee.
Co: In all honesty, when Cheryl and myself would sit down and talk about what our next move is, we had ideas to open up other things, that would then transition into the Rue, someplace else. So we just cut first five years of opening something that wasn't going to be overly financially viable, for the long haul.
Ch: yeah, it was either move away, or buy the Rue. Those were our options, in the end.
Co: yeah, i guess at some point we came to that conclusion.
DR: The Rue enjoys an almost unchallenged reputation in Buffalo, for quality and fine dining. What is it about Joel and Dee Dee's vision that you want to maintain?
Co: I think that reputation is just strictly a testament to Joel and Dee Dee, their unflinching commitment to quality and service, over the past, it's been the fine dining Rue for 31 years now? And the coffeehouse before that, they just refused to accept anything but the best, and it clearly shows, and clearly that's why they have their reputation, and that's what we're trying to continue. the question has come up 'What's changing here?' Nothing's changing here. Cheryl's going to be out front instead of Dee Dee and that's the only change anyone's going to notice. If we wanted to change the Rue, we would not have purchased the Rue. We would've purchased something else, or opened something else. They hired the right people to designer, the right decorator, the right landscaper, the right suppliers. It's the whole bundle, there's no one thing.
Ch: It's consistent food in a comfortable, beautiful, elegant atmosphere.
Co: Actually, we've had a couple of guests come in for the first time over the past couple of weeks and question why they didn't really know about this place. Because we don't really advertise, but the phrase "hidden gem" has come out of their mouth. I think that's somewhat true, you walk through a front door that's fairly nondescript, you kind of pause and say "wow, how have I not been here in the past 20 years?"
DR: I do agree that there is a certain low profile that the restaurant keeps, it's not flashy or in your face...
Co: exactly, it's understated. We don't let our waitstaff wear flashy jewelry, they're very subdued. We prefer to let the guest shine, whether they're celebrating their anniversary, or it's just a random Wednesday night that they're coming out. We want them to feel slightly spoiled, and that they're special.
DR: You yourself seem to keep a low profile, for being somebody that chefs at what a lot of people consider to be THE fine dining restaurant. There are some loud chefs in Buffalo, some "rock star" personalities.
Co: That's personally just not me. Could I easily do a Nickel City Chef, and raise my profile, sure. Would I win? I don't know, I doubt it. It's not the food that I do. I would like to think I'm a fairly humble guy. I put my hours in in the kitchen and I don't have that ego, I don't think. I would much rather have quality food on a plate being served by quality people, than have my name on the building. I would much prefer to build a team around me that is not afraid to tell me that I'm wrong -- or at least bring it to my attention (laughs) -- and not be afraid of me. Anything you can add to that? I don't know I just don't think it's me, the loud...
Ch: No, you let your food speak for itself
Co: Exactly. I mean, it works for some people, and I'm not putting anyone down. But I don't think it's this place.
DR: Buffalo is a small city, and there tends to be a lot of rivalry, have you ever been targeted for that sort of thing?
Co: Absolutely not, quite the opposite.
DR: Because of the oversaturation of food related media, and celebrity chefs, etc., do you think those informed, or maybe misinformed, viewers make your job easier or more difficult?
Co: Food network is on with fifty different personalities, and so yeah I think there's probably too much out there. But, in the long run it actually is probably beneficial, because I really enjoy when someone questions my food, because that's the thing about the restaurant business, you get instant feedback. And when someone's looking for something kind of bizarre or that sounds crazy, I mean, we had someone call not too long ago, looking to source kidneys. Because his mom made veal kidneys when he was little, and he was trying to recreate that memory. those are always fun little moments out of the day, to deal with. But, in the long run, I think it is actually a good thing.
DR: You do a do a kind of a classic, traditional type of cuisine here, I think people would say.
Co: Joel would say, and I think maybe this is a quote I stole from him, the cuisine here is French in style, but we do veer into different areas. I mean our menu now has a little touch of Morocco in it, we have a sweet potato gnocchi that is a nod to Italy. And we go throughout France, North, South, East, and West. And there's some Asian flavors, at times. So, yeah, the technique's mostly French, but we're not "classic French." What my personal take on food is, what I strive for is, I guess, taking a classic French recipe and lightening it up. Doing some sort of emulsion, that's not foamy, instead of a cream sauce. An olive oil and stock emulsion, that you can get the same consistency, but it's not a bunch of cream on the plate, or a bunch of butter.
DR: How do you feel about how the idea of "hyphenated" cuisine has affected classic styles of cooking, or French styles? Do you feel that it has removed the relevance or importance of the "classic" style? How does that influence your philosophy of cooking?
Co: In all honesty I think everything is cyclical, so in the late 90's was sort of the pinnacle of the "fusion" disaster. And i think people started going back to more traditional ways of cooking. And Spain came out with their gastronomy, whatever they're calling it now, and so I think that cycle started again where people started to get more bizarre. Alinea in Chicago is maybe the forerunner, in the states, between them and WD50. I don't know if i would go there and spend $1500 on dinner, on 24 courses, and leave there feeling satisfied. I'd probably leave there saying "Oh that was kind of interesting but REALLY expensive." I don't know. It seems like its more combining dinner and a show at the table than dinner and going to see a live performance someplace else. Is that negative against traditional cuisine? No, because I think traditional cuisine will always come back. There's always someone still making Pot au Fou at home. It's always going to survive. And i think that the French government has taken steps to ensure that is the case, they've opened up a section of government strictly to preserve classic regional foodstuffs. So I think in France that will not necessarily go away. I think that people like myself, and there's a million of me out there, that will strive to continue keeping that stuff around. Not completely traditional, but in the sense of tradition. There may be American ingredients, but we do it in that style.
DR: When I spoke with Joel, he mentioned you've done a bit of travelling, and that maybe you hope to do some more, as far as research. What are your plans?
Co: Well we'll certainly be doing more travelling now. I did have the opportunity to go to France, like I said. We didn't go anywhere this past vacation, we had some stuff working out here. But last year we spent a week in San Francisco, and that will continue. We close the Rue down for three weeks at the end of every summer. So as it looks right now, that tradition will be kept. But, yeah, Cheryl's sister actually lives in Belgium, we spend our first Christmas together in Belgium. We have family that we need to go visit in Europe, and we do need to travel through Europe.
DR: That's always a good excuse to go to Europe! What sorts of places do you find inspiration at in your travels? Is there something you look for particularly? Do you seek out particular regions or restaurants, or chefs?
Co: No, I think Europe is completely different than the States maybe. In San Francisco we searched out different restaurants and ate way too much, and didnt' sight see enough. But that was inspirational. The quality of ingredients in California I think rivals Europe, and their dedication to keeping things simple and honest. And so that's just inspirational. Tasting a leek that actually tastes like a leek, that's not hidden, is really refreshing. Places like Chez Panis, where we ate, they've been doing it just as long as Joel and Dee Dee and they're very very honest to their food. And I think that holds true in Europe, and I think that's inspirational. I think visiting markets is inspirational. I mean we are blessed with four months out of the year to have pretty good farmer's markets around here and so we try to do that as much as possible. That is very inspirational. You talk to a farmer that's actually passionate about what he's doing, and you can't help but buy potatoes from him. And to keep those potatoes honest, not mash 'em up. I mean properly roasted potatoes are a great thing.
DR: There does seem to be trend getting attention lately, of local sourcing, "locavore" restaurants, how much of that do you guys do here?
Co: Well, we've been doing that for forty years, we just don't write it on our menu and announce it. That's why we change our menu four times a year, because we work with the seasons, and we buy as much local produce as possible. At the same time you can't buy everything local, always. I suppose you could, but your menu would be changing weekly I guess. But we do [buy locally]. Our menu's simple and understated. And when we have a veal rib chop, and in late summer, when we have local peppers, those peppers were local. We just didn't say what farm they were from, and how they were raised or whatever. Because at the end of the day people still want a veal rib chop. They don't overly care what farm it comes from. But its actually a very positive thing for people to be concerned with where their food's coming from. It's a balancing act of eating local but eating within a budget.
DR: You seem to be extremely invested in this venture, and have been since before you became the new owners. Do you get an opportunity to eat at other local restaurants at all?
Co: We do. The great thing about this restaurant is that it's always closed on Sundays and Mondays, so we actually have a weekend. So yeah, we do go out.
DR: What sorts of places do you frequent?
Co: We like SeaBar, Mike does a fantastic job, and I'm sure his Mexican place will do well, and his venture over at the Lafayette in a few months. I'm sure they're going to be fantastic additional places to go. We like Oliver's. There's some good places around, plus some...not great places around. Those are probably our two mainstays we eat at on a fairly normal basis.
DR: Do you get an opportunity to try out the cuisine that is considered to be your competitor's?
Co: Absolutely, I think Oliver's is our competitor. I think they're on par with us, and do a great job, and Henry's been doing it 25+, maybe thirty years now. I think Tempo is on par with our quality...they're prices are much higher than ours, but to each his own. I think Buffalo food scene is actually fairly competitive and no one is doing a terrible job. Everyone's doing a good job, and in all honesty i think it's a matter of refinement, rather than quality for other places. I think we refine things more than for what other restaurants would be normal. I think other restaurants aren't of any less quality, but they're maybe not as refined as us. If that doesn't come across as too pompous. (laughs)
DR: I don't think it does, you seem like a humble guy and that you know what you're doing.
Co: I'm fairly comfortable with what I'm doing, and I feel like I know what I want to be doing and I'm doing it. So I don't have any...I mean there is still a little bit of me wanting every guest to feel content. That doesn't always happen, but it's what I strive for.
DR: How does operating in city like Buffalo influence what you do here. You mentioned that if it wasn't the Rue, you might not have stuck around in town.
Co: It would have given us reason to venture out. But with that being said, Buffalo is a little town, it's not expensive, and it really frees you up to do other things here that you might not be able to do in Chicago or New York, or Boston, or San Francisco, when you're just worrying about rent being three times what it is here.
DR: Is there any way you feel limited that you're not operating in a city like Chicago or New York or Boston?
Co: No, I don't. Because I think our free time compensates for that, because we can actually travel to those cities, and enjoy them. I suppose if the Rue were open in Chicago or New York, we'd have to be open for lunch, we'd have to be open seven days, our staff would have to be double what it is. It would be a monster that I almost wouldn't want to deal with. And that's one of the joys of this restaurant is that it's the same staff, every day. Our head server Richard, who's almost been here 20 years now, he's here every day. He doesn't take vacations, he may sneak out for a week after Easter when it's not very busy. And the kitchen staff is the kitchen staff. We don't have extra guys when someone wants to go to a concert. I'm sorry, but you don't get to go to a concert, it's just what it is. You go see shows on Sunday or Monday. I think that helps our consistency, I think that's why you bond, I think that's why our kitchen staff is maybe a little tighter that in other places because of that. It's a testament to Joel and Dee Dee, the consistency of our staff. Richard's been here 20 years, Gregory our bartender has been here 14 or 15 years, longest guy in the kitchen's been here 20 years, I've been here 8 years. The next guy behind me has been here 8 years. So I think people who demand quality will find this place, and will want to work here, and maintain that quality. And someone who wants an easy job puttin' food on a plate will find that someplace else, just not here.
DR: I hear you talk about quality and consistency and things like that. I wonder, do you think because Buffalo is the little guy of cities, will it at any point garner any more attention? Do you think we'll ever get to the point where Michelin is rating Buffalo?
Co: I doubt it. Michelin is rating New York, San Francisco, and Chicago right now. Three U.S. cities. Do I think Buffalo will ever be starred before Miami? No, I don't think so. But I'm fine with that. I think the chasing stars, or chasing ratings, is a dangerous game, when all you're doing is looking out for the next examiner to walk through the door, and you don't really know what your self worth is. I think that's a dangerous game, and I'm completely happy with Michelin not being here.
DR: obviously it sounds like you don't need or want it, but how important do you feel professional accolades are here, as far as what you'd want to get across in a message to potential guests?
Co: It does hold some weight. Getting four stars from Janice does hold a little bit of weight. When someone from out of town is looking on Trip Advisor, or Googles your restaurant's name, and a list of four star, three star reviews come up, and yeah I think that holds some weight for a person who's going to make a reservation. Are there better places to eat in New York City than Per Se or La Bernadin, I would say there's probably a better way to spend your dollar. But would those places be great to eat at? Absolutely. So, there's some merit to handing out stars and handing out awards, but I personally am comfortable enough not receiveing them. If you stay honest and you stay on top of your game, and you do what you do every day, then those will just come, they're an added little snippet in the newspaper for you, a good way to put your restaurant's name out. But I sleep better when I feel that someone's had a good service and I step out to the bar at the end of the day and say goodnight to some guests and they are smiles and are very very happy, that's more what I'm concerned about, than one person's editorial comment about me in a newspaper.
DR: How do you think that Joel and Dee Dee staying on in a consulting role will play out here at the Rue?
Co: As far as I'm concerned, I need Joel and Dee Dee for advice, and I've been using that these past three weeks that we've been open. Joel either stops in or I give him a call, and he has a perspective that I don't. He's been doing it for forty years, and so has Dee Dee, and I think that's fairly invaluable to have that perspective. If I have a question about bookkeeping or my wife has a question about bookkeeping, Joel's been good about that, so essentially those two things. I just want Joel and Dee Dee to feel comfortable with their choice, and I think they do. And that's pretty much what I see their consulting role as. Will it evolve into something else? Things always have a tendency of evolving, but that's pretty much the way I see it, they're valued opinion on business decisions that we get to run by them, on their end.
DR: Joel mentioned that he felt like he's set you and Cheryl up for success. What do you think that success will look like under your ownership? What is measure of success, and do you have plans of expanding it?
Co: My vision of success is the same guests coming in. The same guests coming in and not noticing anything, except that Dee Dee's not here. My wife is Cheryl, and she's not Dee Dee, and that's it. The guests that have been coming in maintain coming in and that that is a very good measure of success. Do we have plans to expand? I don't know probably not. It's only been three weeks, we don't have massive plans yet. I don't have any plans yet. At some point we do have, not to remodel, but we do have to replace things that become outdated and old. The last remodel here was 1981.
DR: It's held up pretty well since then.
Co: Exactly. There's always fresh coat of paint out here, but in the main dining room, I don't know. It will maintain it's integrity. It will remain the Rue. Someone will say it's Corey and Cheryl's Rue, but it's just going to be small minor change. Like I said, there's no reason to buy the Rue if you're going to change the Rue. We're looking for continuity.
DR: Assuming any of your longstanding clientele happen to read this interview, is there a particular message that you want them to take away?
Co: No, in all honesty, the Rue's the Rue. We're not changing anything. The food is most certainly not changing. Cheryl is not Dee Dee, but she's a very very gracious host who is here to accommodate you.
DR: How about for the readership that has not experienced the Rue, is there a message you'd like to give them?
Co: Please, come in! Tuesday through Thursday we offer a three course prixe fix menu, it changes every week. Three courses will run you $33, depending on the week. Give us a try, I would argue there's not a better deal in town. Come in, try it out. Make your own judgement. Don't let someone judge the place for you.
DR: Is there anything you'd like to touch on that we haven't already covered?
Co: No, I don't think so. Cheryl and myself feel very confident. Joel set us up for success, continued success. We have a great staff, front and back of the house, everyone is here for the same goal, and that is to pursue excellence, commitment to quality, and to give every guest that comes through the door a great experience. And it's not flashy it's true and it's honest, and I think that's about it.
I made a comment last week about how I actually thoroughly enjoy my seventy hour work week. And I do.
Ch: I thought he was being sarcastic.
Co: Food kind of runs my life. It's working, It's reading, It's our days off. I thoroughly enjoy what I do. I am thoroughly happy and enjoy my life.
Ch: There's been a few guests, who've been guests from 40 years ago when it was the coffee shop, and there's been a little bit of a shock for people who've been coming here for that many years, and it's completely understandable. But just give me the opportunity, and I'm sure we'll be ok.
Co: And they've been very pleased when they've left. And you're a very gracious host.
Ch: So far things have been really well received, and a lot of the guests who have been here many many years will say "Great job, we'll see you again soon" and will make a reservation on the way out. So, it's a very good sign.
DR: Now, it was your suggestion to do the interview when I called to confirm a few rumors about the sale. For a guy that keeps a low profile, what is about doing an interview that was attractive to you?
Co: We do have to actually make the announcement.
Ch: It's a subtle way of letting people know things aren't the same.
Co: Yeah we've been running the Rue for three weeks now, and we didn't really make a big announcement. We just opened the door one day. Joel and Dee Dee left on Saturday, and we opened up the door on Tuesday, like they would, and not a lot of guests realized that, which is kind of what we wanted. We didn't want big banners with "New Ownership"
Ch: We didn't want to rock the boat.
Co: Yeah, exactly. The Rue's the Rue. And a lot of guests went "Oh, where's Dee Dee?" Well, she's actually not here anymore, and this is Cheryl. We have to do interviews, we have to be out there. But that doesn't mean I'll be marching down Main Street with a banner for the Rue Franklin. Guests will come in and the Rue will speak for itself.
DR: Well, I can tell that what you guys do here is born out of a passion, that it's not just a business, and I wish you the best of luck.
Co: I guess that's a quote that I wouldn't mind. We are striving to be a restaurant first and a business second, and that is something that Joel has instilled in me. When you believe that and you actually implement it, the business takes care of itself. And you just have to worry about polishing silverware and serving guests.
DR: Last but not least, what are you making for dinner tonight?
Co: It's Saturday! That's a good question. Tonight's addition will be a seafood stew, actually. Mahi Mahi, shrimp, scallops, squid. Israeli cous cous, and olives. Tomato broth. It's not too bad, it's a little tasty.
What follows is my transcription of a recorded interview with the couple. Spelling errors and tempermental capitalizations galore. Enjoy.
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DR: How did you get started in the service industry, and how did you come to the Rue?
Co: We're both from Buffalo, North Tonawanda/City of Tonawanda. Me personally, I started dishwashing when I was 15 I think, at an old place that my neighbor owned. Within a couple of months moved from dishwasher to making salads or plating food. And that was pretty much it for me, after that. A friend of mine that i worked with had an in at Warren's with Mark Warren, got me an interview there, and I ended up getting a job when I was 16 or 17, and after that, that was pretty much all i was going to do for the rest of my life. Mark showed me what it was to be fine dining and a restaurateur. I went to Paul Smith's College after high school, and had the joy of going to France through school, and getting school credit which pretty much can't be beat. I fell in love with France then, and came back home, spent a couple months down in Florida, came back to Buffalo, and worked for Mark again at Zuzon's, where I met my wife, where she was serving. After that I worked at a couple places I'd rather not mention (laughs)...and then i found my home at the Rue, and I've been here for 8 years now. And this is exactly the place I wanted to be. And it was a no-brainer to purchase this.
Ch: I think i started in restaurants when i was about 16, started out as a hostess. And then throughout the years I've worked at, i don't know how many different restaurants in Buffalo, serving, hosting, foodrunning, bussing tables, cocktailing, and then, like my husband had mentioned, we met along the way. It was about ten years ago, and i guess the rest is history. we're here now, ten years later, working together, owning, so it's been nice.
DR: Did you fall into the Rue separately, did one of you bring the other along? was it a 'package deal'?
Co: Of course it was a package deal! this place has to be a husband and wife team, i think. it seems to work out. it's worked out for the past 40 years, I'm sure it'll work out for the next 40.
Ch: for some reason i always kind of figured we would end up here, I'm not really sure how that happened. It was just, like (Corey always says), a natural progression, taking over.
DR: How important do you think it was for former owners Joel and DeeDee Lippes to pass this place on to another husband and wife team? was it a priority for them, do you think?
Co: I don't want to say it was a priority, for a husband and wife team, i just think, I've never had a partner in business, and I've heard nothing but bad things about partners in business. i think it's a little bit easier when the partners are under one roof. was it overly important that they sell to a husband and wife? in the long run, i don't really think so, but i think it was a very natural fit.
DR: Having seen it done firsthand, and being a husband and wife team, how do you think that relationship contributes to the success of the Rue?
Co: i think it just opens up communication. neither of us hold back, because we have the husband and wife bond, when there's something wrong, or something's not right -- or something IS right -- it's an immediate reaction.
DR: I've worked for some people that have been husband and wife teams in the past that haven't worked out -- what play does the quality of the relationship have in running the business?
Ch: i think you have to know when to put the relationship first, and when to put the business first. there's times when it's important, and you might be stressed out, but you have things you need to do and you just do them.
Co: i was just thinking that every restaurant I've worked in that has been worthwhile has been a husband and wife team. and of course everyone has their moment when the relationship carries over to the business, i guess, but you try to keep those few and far between. i think in the long run it just works out.
Ch: you have to have a strong relationship to start out with though
Co: exactly
DR: how does your relationship frame the way you approach coming to work, as far staff and even clientele is considered?
Co: At least from my approach, i love coming to work. one common complaint in the kitchen is that you don't get to see your wife or your kids or your family; i don't have that problem, now. and how does that relate to the rest of the staff? i actually think its slightly more positive, its relationships, right? its slightly easier to trust, or for the staff to trust you, knowing what you have invested. Not just a partnership where you have money invested, this is in all honesty our life. we've moved in upstairs. this is just what we're doing. i think that it reflects on the quality that we're putting out and the staff is reassured that we're not here to drain the business and move on in ten years. The next 40 years is what we're looking at. i hope in 40 years we're sitting down with the next couple, or the next owner, asking the same questions.
DR: It's no secret Cheryl has a bun in the oven...
Ch: it's out there
Co: there's not much hiding it
Ch: yeah, he's here.
Co: it is going to be a boy, at least that's what the doctors tell us, he is due in late December.
DR: well, that's comin up!
Co: exactly, but we're excited! of course everything had to happen at once. we had to get a restaurant, move, and have a baby all at the same time! But i think, what we've been talking about, in ten years, we'll look back and say 'How the hell did we do it?'
DR: do you have a plan for how you are going to handle it? is it a day at a time?
Co: no, we have a tentative plan. Cheryl will be stepping off the floor during the month of December. she'll still be here during the day, answering phones and doing bookwork and things like that. Setting the staff up, for the evening. And then we have a very very strong support staff of servers and bussers out in the front that have been here forever, and can easily fill the void and Dee Dee will be coming back for a little bit, during the early part of December. And then there's be a new face around for the second part of December, and then after that the baby will be down here. in the corner someplace? (laughs) I don't know. We haven't worked out the logistics of that, but he will be down here. And then we will have a nanny in the evening when Cheryl's back on the floor.
DR: You're pretty much destined to have an industry involved kid, then, huh?
Co: (laughs) exactly. Well. he could embrace it, or he could rebel against it.
DR: At what point did you know that the Rue was some place you wanted to be involved with on the level that you are now?
Co: I'm not sure when that happened. I can tell you that it took me about three days to know that I was not going to be working any place else and be living in Buffalo.
DR: Why is that?
Co: Why? Because on day three, Joel was teaching me for the second time how to cook mushrooms properly. You know what I mean? He just had that level of quality that he refused to budge on, and I knew I was not going to be working any place else. I'm sure that does exist at other places, but this was the place for me. I knew that almost instantly. When did I come home and say I wanted to own it? I'm sure that happened at some point.
Ch: I think it's always been a running joke, even with Joel and Dee Dee.
Co: In all honesty, when Cheryl and myself would sit down and talk about what our next move is, we had ideas to open up other things, that would then transition into the Rue, someplace else. So we just cut first five years of opening something that wasn't going to be overly financially viable, for the long haul.
Ch: yeah, it was either move away, or buy the Rue. Those were our options, in the end.
Co: yeah, i guess at some point we came to that conclusion.
DR: The Rue enjoys an almost unchallenged reputation in Buffalo, for quality and fine dining. What is it about Joel and Dee Dee's vision that you want to maintain?
Co: I think that reputation is just strictly a testament to Joel and Dee Dee, their unflinching commitment to quality and service, over the past, it's been the fine dining Rue for 31 years now? And the coffeehouse before that, they just refused to accept anything but the best, and it clearly shows, and clearly that's why they have their reputation, and that's what we're trying to continue. the question has come up 'What's changing here?' Nothing's changing here. Cheryl's going to be out front instead of Dee Dee and that's the only change anyone's going to notice. If we wanted to change the Rue, we would not have purchased the Rue. We would've purchased something else, or opened something else. They hired the right people to designer, the right decorator, the right landscaper, the right suppliers. It's the whole bundle, there's no one thing.
Ch: It's consistent food in a comfortable, beautiful, elegant atmosphere.
Co: Actually, we've had a couple of guests come in for the first time over the past couple of weeks and question why they didn't really know about this place. Because we don't really advertise, but the phrase "hidden gem" has come out of their mouth. I think that's somewhat true, you walk through a front door that's fairly nondescript, you kind of pause and say "wow, how have I not been here in the past 20 years?"
DR: I do agree that there is a certain low profile that the restaurant keeps, it's not flashy or in your face...
Co: exactly, it's understated. We don't let our waitstaff wear flashy jewelry, they're very subdued. We prefer to let the guest shine, whether they're celebrating their anniversary, or it's just a random Wednesday night that they're coming out. We want them to feel slightly spoiled, and that they're special.
DR: You yourself seem to keep a low profile, for being somebody that chefs at what a lot of people consider to be THE fine dining restaurant. There are some loud chefs in Buffalo, some "rock star" personalities.
Co: That's personally just not me. Could I easily do a Nickel City Chef, and raise my profile, sure. Would I win? I don't know, I doubt it. It's not the food that I do. I would like to think I'm a fairly humble guy. I put my hours in in the kitchen and I don't have that ego, I don't think. I would much rather have quality food on a plate being served by quality people, than have my name on the building. I would much prefer to build a team around me that is not afraid to tell me that I'm wrong -- or at least bring it to my attention (laughs) -- and not be afraid of me. Anything you can add to that? I don't know I just don't think it's me, the loud...
Ch: No, you let your food speak for itself
Co: Exactly. I mean, it works for some people, and I'm not putting anyone down. But I don't think it's this place.
DR: Buffalo is a small city, and there tends to be a lot of rivalry, have you ever been targeted for that sort of thing?
Co: Absolutely not, quite the opposite.
DR: Because of the oversaturation of food related media, and celebrity chefs, etc., do you think those informed, or maybe misinformed, viewers make your job easier or more difficult?
Co: Food network is on with fifty different personalities, and so yeah I think there's probably too much out there. But, in the long run it actually is probably beneficial, because I really enjoy when someone questions my food, because that's the thing about the restaurant business, you get instant feedback. And when someone's looking for something kind of bizarre or that sounds crazy, I mean, we had someone call not too long ago, looking to source kidneys. Because his mom made veal kidneys when he was little, and he was trying to recreate that memory. those are always fun little moments out of the day, to deal with. But, in the long run, I think it is actually a good thing.
DR: You do a do a kind of a classic, traditional type of cuisine here, I think people would say.
Co: Joel would say, and I think maybe this is a quote I stole from him, the cuisine here is French in style, but we do veer into different areas. I mean our menu now has a little touch of Morocco in it, we have a sweet potato gnocchi that is a nod to Italy. And we go throughout France, North, South, East, and West. And there's some Asian flavors, at times. So, yeah, the technique's mostly French, but we're not "classic French." What my personal take on food is, what I strive for is, I guess, taking a classic French recipe and lightening it up. Doing some sort of emulsion, that's not foamy, instead of a cream sauce. An olive oil and stock emulsion, that you can get the same consistency, but it's not a bunch of cream on the plate, or a bunch of butter.
DR: How do you feel about how the idea of "hyphenated" cuisine has affected classic styles of cooking, or French styles? Do you feel that it has removed the relevance or importance of the "classic" style? How does that influence your philosophy of cooking?
Co: In all honesty I think everything is cyclical, so in the late 90's was sort of the pinnacle of the "fusion" disaster. And i think people started going back to more traditional ways of cooking. And Spain came out with their gastronomy, whatever they're calling it now, and so I think that cycle started again where people started to get more bizarre. Alinea in Chicago is maybe the forerunner, in the states, between them and WD50. I don't know if i would go there and spend $1500 on dinner, on 24 courses, and leave there feeling satisfied. I'd probably leave there saying "Oh that was kind of interesting but REALLY expensive." I don't know. It seems like its more combining dinner and a show at the table than dinner and going to see a live performance someplace else. Is that negative against traditional cuisine? No, because I think traditional cuisine will always come back. There's always someone still making Pot au Fou at home. It's always going to survive. And i think that the French government has taken steps to ensure that is the case, they've opened up a section of government strictly to preserve classic regional foodstuffs. So I think in France that will not necessarily go away. I think that people like myself, and there's a million of me out there, that will strive to continue keeping that stuff around. Not completely traditional, but in the sense of tradition. There may be American ingredients, but we do it in that style.
DR: When I spoke with Joel, he mentioned you've done a bit of travelling, and that maybe you hope to do some more, as far as research. What are your plans?
Co: Well we'll certainly be doing more travelling now. I did have the opportunity to go to France, like I said. We didn't go anywhere this past vacation, we had some stuff working out here. But last year we spent a week in San Francisco, and that will continue. We close the Rue down for three weeks at the end of every summer. So as it looks right now, that tradition will be kept. But, yeah, Cheryl's sister actually lives in Belgium, we spend our first Christmas together in Belgium. We have family that we need to go visit in Europe, and we do need to travel through Europe.
DR: That's always a good excuse to go to Europe! What sorts of places do you find inspiration at in your travels? Is there something you look for particularly? Do you seek out particular regions or restaurants, or chefs?
Co: No, I think Europe is completely different than the States maybe. In San Francisco we searched out different restaurants and ate way too much, and didnt' sight see enough. But that was inspirational. The quality of ingredients in California I think rivals Europe, and their dedication to keeping things simple and honest. And so that's just inspirational. Tasting a leek that actually tastes like a leek, that's not hidden, is really refreshing. Places like Chez Panis, where we ate, they've been doing it just as long as Joel and Dee Dee and they're very very honest to their food. And I think that holds true in Europe, and I think that's inspirational. I think visiting markets is inspirational. I mean we are blessed with four months out of the year to have pretty good farmer's markets around here and so we try to do that as much as possible. That is very inspirational. You talk to a farmer that's actually passionate about what he's doing, and you can't help but buy potatoes from him. And to keep those potatoes honest, not mash 'em up. I mean properly roasted potatoes are a great thing.
DR: There does seem to be trend getting attention lately, of local sourcing, "locavore" restaurants, how much of that do you guys do here?
Co: Well, we've been doing that for forty years, we just don't write it on our menu and announce it. That's why we change our menu four times a year, because we work with the seasons, and we buy as much local produce as possible. At the same time you can't buy everything local, always. I suppose you could, but your menu would be changing weekly I guess. But we do [buy locally]. Our menu's simple and understated. And when we have a veal rib chop, and in late summer, when we have local peppers, those peppers were local. We just didn't say what farm they were from, and how they were raised or whatever. Because at the end of the day people still want a veal rib chop. They don't overly care what farm it comes from. But its actually a very positive thing for people to be concerned with where their food's coming from. It's a balancing act of eating local but eating within a budget.
DR: You seem to be extremely invested in this venture, and have been since before you became the new owners. Do you get an opportunity to eat at other local restaurants at all?
Co: We do. The great thing about this restaurant is that it's always closed on Sundays and Mondays, so we actually have a weekend. So yeah, we do go out.
DR: What sorts of places do you frequent?
Co: We like SeaBar, Mike does a fantastic job, and I'm sure his Mexican place will do well, and his venture over at the Lafayette in a few months. I'm sure they're going to be fantastic additional places to go. We like Oliver's. There's some good places around, plus some...not great places around. Those are probably our two mainstays we eat at on a fairly normal basis.
DR: Do you get an opportunity to try out the cuisine that is considered to be your competitor's?
Co: Absolutely, I think Oliver's is our competitor. I think they're on par with us, and do a great job, and Henry's been doing it 25+, maybe thirty years now. I think Tempo is on par with our quality...they're prices are much higher than ours, but to each his own. I think Buffalo food scene is actually fairly competitive and no one is doing a terrible job. Everyone's doing a good job, and in all honesty i think it's a matter of refinement, rather than quality for other places. I think we refine things more than for what other restaurants would be normal. I think other restaurants aren't of any less quality, but they're maybe not as refined as us. If that doesn't come across as too pompous. (laughs)
DR: I don't think it does, you seem like a humble guy and that you know what you're doing.
Co: I'm fairly comfortable with what I'm doing, and I feel like I know what I want to be doing and I'm doing it. So I don't have any...I mean there is still a little bit of me wanting every guest to feel content. That doesn't always happen, but it's what I strive for.
DR: How does operating in city like Buffalo influence what you do here. You mentioned that if it wasn't the Rue, you might not have stuck around in town.
Co: It would have given us reason to venture out. But with that being said, Buffalo is a little town, it's not expensive, and it really frees you up to do other things here that you might not be able to do in Chicago or New York, or Boston, or San Francisco, when you're just worrying about rent being three times what it is here.
DR: Is there any way you feel limited that you're not operating in a city like Chicago or New York or Boston?
Co: No, I don't. Because I think our free time compensates for that, because we can actually travel to those cities, and enjoy them. I suppose if the Rue were open in Chicago or New York, we'd have to be open for lunch, we'd have to be open seven days, our staff would have to be double what it is. It would be a monster that I almost wouldn't want to deal with. And that's one of the joys of this restaurant is that it's the same staff, every day. Our head server Richard, who's almost been here 20 years now, he's here every day. He doesn't take vacations, he may sneak out for a week after Easter when it's not very busy. And the kitchen staff is the kitchen staff. We don't have extra guys when someone wants to go to a concert. I'm sorry, but you don't get to go to a concert, it's just what it is. You go see shows on Sunday or Monday. I think that helps our consistency, I think that's why you bond, I think that's why our kitchen staff is maybe a little tighter that in other places because of that. It's a testament to Joel and Dee Dee, the consistency of our staff. Richard's been here 20 years, Gregory our bartender has been here 14 or 15 years, longest guy in the kitchen's been here 20 years, I've been here 8 years. The next guy behind me has been here 8 years. So I think people who demand quality will find this place, and will want to work here, and maintain that quality. And someone who wants an easy job puttin' food on a plate will find that someplace else, just not here.
DR: I hear you talk about quality and consistency and things like that. I wonder, do you think because Buffalo is the little guy of cities, will it at any point garner any more attention? Do you think we'll ever get to the point where Michelin is rating Buffalo?
Co: I doubt it. Michelin is rating New York, San Francisco, and Chicago right now. Three U.S. cities. Do I think Buffalo will ever be starred before Miami? No, I don't think so. But I'm fine with that. I think the chasing stars, or chasing ratings, is a dangerous game, when all you're doing is looking out for the next examiner to walk through the door, and you don't really know what your self worth is. I think that's a dangerous game, and I'm completely happy with Michelin not being here.
DR: obviously it sounds like you don't need or want it, but how important do you feel professional accolades are here, as far as what you'd want to get across in a message to potential guests?
Co: It does hold some weight. Getting four stars from Janice does hold a little bit of weight. When someone from out of town is looking on Trip Advisor, or Googles your restaurant's name, and a list of four star, three star reviews come up, and yeah I think that holds some weight for a person who's going to make a reservation. Are there better places to eat in New York City than Per Se or La Bernadin, I would say there's probably a better way to spend your dollar. But would those places be great to eat at? Absolutely. So, there's some merit to handing out stars and handing out awards, but I personally am comfortable enough not receiveing them. If you stay honest and you stay on top of your game, and you do what you do every day, then those will just come, they're an added little snippet in the newspaper for you, a good way to put your restaurant's name out. But I sleep better when I feel that someone's had a good service and I step out to the bar at the end of the day and say goodnight to some guests and they are smiles and are very very happy, that's more what I'm concerned about, than one person's editorial comment about me in a newspaper.
DR: How do you think that Joel and Dee Dee staying on in a consulting role will play out here at the Rue?
Co: As far as I'm concerned, I need Joel and Dee Dee for advice, and I've been using that these past three weeks that we've been open. Joel either stops in or I give him a call, and he has a perspective that I don't. He's been doing it for forty years, and so has Dee Dee, and I think that's fairly invaluable to have that perspective. If I have a question about bookkeeping or my wife has a question about bookkeeping, Joel's been good about that, so essentially those two things. I just want Joel and Dee Dee to feel comfortable with their choice, and I think they do. And that's pretty much what I see their consulting role as. Will it evolve into something else? Things always have a tendency of evolving, but that's pretty much the way I see it, they're valued opinion on business decisions that we get to run by them, on their end.
DR: Joel mentioned that he felt like he's set you and Cheryl up for success. What do you think that success will look like under your ownership? What is measure of success, and do you have plans of expanding it?
Co: My vision of success is the same guests coming in. The same guests coming in and not noticing anything, except that Dee Dee's not here. My wife is Cheryl, and she's not Dee Dee, and that's it. The guests that have been coming in maintain coming in and that that is a very good measure of success. Do we have plans to expand? I don't know probably not. It's only been three weeks, we don't have massive plans yet. I don't have any plans yet. At some point we do have, not to remodel, but we do have to replace things that become outdated and old. The last remodel here was 1981.
DR: It's held up pretty well since then.
Co: Exactly. There's always fresh coat of paint out here, but in the main dining room, I don't know. It will maintain it's integrity. It will remain the Rue. Someone will say it's Corey and Cheryl's Rue, but it's just going to be small minor change. Like I said, there's no reason to buy the Rue if you're going to change the Rue. We're looking for continuity.
DR: Assuming any of your longstanding clientele happen to read this interview, is there a particular message that you want them to take away?
Co: No, in all honesty, the Rue's the Rue. We're not changing anything. The food is most certainly not changing. Cheryl is not Dee Dee, but she's a very very gracious host who is here to accommodate you.
DR: How about for the readership that has not experienced the Rue, is there a message you'd like to give them?
Co: Please, come in! Tuesday through Thursday we offer a three course prixe fix menu, it changes every week. Three courses will run you $33, depending on the week. Give us a try, I would argue there's not a better deal in town. Come in, try it out. Make your own judgement. Don't let someone judge the place for you.
DR: Is there anything you'd like to touch on that we haven't already covered?
Co: No, I don't think so. Cheryl and myself feel very confident. Joel set us up for success, continued success. We have a great staff, front and back of the house, everyone is here for the same goal, and that is to pursue excellence, commitment to quality, and to give every guest that comes through the door a great experience. And it's not flashy it's true and it's honest, and I think that's about it.
I made a comment last week about how I actually thoroughly enjoy my seventy hour work week. And I do.
Ch: I thought he was being sarcastic.
Co: Food kind of runs my life. It's working, It's reading, It's our days off. I thoroughly enjoy what I do. I am thoroughly happy and enjoy my life.
Ch: There's been a few guests, who've been guests from 40 years ago when it was the coffee shop, and there's been a little bit of a shock for people who've been coming here for that many years, and it's completely understandable. But just give me the opportunity, and I'm sure we'll be ok.
Co: And they've been very pleased when they've left. And you're a very gracious host.
Ch: So far things have been really well received, and a lot of the guests who have been here many many years will say "Great job, we'll see you again soon" and will make a reservation on the way out. So, it's a very good sign.
DR: Now, it was your suggestion to do the interview when I called to confirm a few rumors about the sale. For a guy that keeps a low profile, what is about doing an interview that was attractive to you?
Co: We do have to actually make the announcement.
Ch: It's a subtle way of letting people know things aren't the same.
Co: Yeah we've been running the Rue for three weeks now, and we didn't really make a big announcement. We just opened the door one day. Joel and Dee Dee left on Saturday, and we opened up the door on Tuesday, like they would, and not a lot of guests realized that, which is kind of what we wanted. We didn't want big banners with "New Ownership"
Ch: We didn't want to rock the boat.
Co: Yeah, exactly. The Rue's the Rue. And a lot of guests went "Oh, where's Dee Dee?" Well, she's actually not here anymore, and this is Cheryl. We have to do interviews, we have to be out there. But that doesn't mean I'll be marching down Main Street with a banner for the Rue Franklin. Guests will come in and the Rue will speak for itself.
DR: Well, I can tell that what you guys do here is born out of a passion, that it's not just a business, and I wish you the best of luck.
Co: I guess that's a quote that I wouldn't mind. We are striving to be a restaurant first and a business second, and that is something that Joel has instilled in me. When you believe that and you actually implement it, the business takes care of itself. And you just have to worry about polishing silverware and serving guests.
DR: Last but not least, what are you making for dinner tonight?
Co: It's Saturday! That's a good question. Tonight's addition will be a seafood stew, actually. Mahi Mahi, shrimp, scallops, squid. Israeli cous cous, and olives. Tomato broth. It's not too bad, it's a little tasty.
Friday, October 28, 2011
Room for Imrovement
this may or may not become an ongoing feature of the site, but i think "Beneath the Service" can use a counterpoint.
There is certainly a tense dynamic between service staff and customers that is at the heart of "Beneath the Service" and other industry insider "manisfestos," but, in discussion with a fellow restaurant worker, we agreed that what often starts out as airing grievances, in some cases, can rapidly degrade into a rant excusing one's own shitty service skills. that is never what i want "Beneath the Service" to become, and part of avoiding that is being able to turn a critical eye inward, to ourselves and our practices as industry workers.
Additionally, there is something of a tense relationship between industry workers performing different duties -- the rivalry between the kitchen (the back of the house) and floor staff (the front of the house) is age old. similarly, rivalries exist amongst the host and the servers, servers and bussers, servers and bartenders. well, between servers and everyone, really. within the last week or so alone i've heard industry workers spitting stereotypes about the other stations: " servers don't do enough sidework," "servers don't care about the food, just about money," "bartenders are lazy," etc. etc.
the sad thing is, these wouldn't be stereotypes if they weren't earned in some capacity.
the following is a list of areas in which i've noticed we have room for improvement.
The Stupid Things We Bitch About:
I am usually on the side of my fellow restaurant and service industry workers when it comes to complaints about customers but I have to draw the line at a few complaints that make us seem petty and whiny. Everyone's life would get better if we could work up some self control, and quit inviting the criticism we often deserve.
1)"I can't believe that they just came in 10 minutes before we close!"
I have absolutely been guilty of this. But operating hours are operating hours. The key words in the sentence are "before we close." Before means we are not closed. Not closed means open. Open means there to do business and serve people and put some more money in the register (as well as your pocket). If the sign on your door says open until 10, you should be ready to seat people until 10. Period and end of story. If you don't want to serve folks at 9:50, then change the sign on your door to say "We close at 9:50." The places that I know that have the biggest problem in getting business (and staying open for business) all have/had consistency problems in their hours. Any server or cook worth their salt knows that we depend on the customers for our income and that we never get out of work when the sign on the door says closed. Your job, whatever station you work in a restaurant, is to service the customer. This is what we've signed up for, and what is possible for us to do in order to make customers happy is what should be done. That can mean different things at different times, but in the time between open and close, it is our job. Stop bitching and feed the guest so they can leave and tell everyone how great it was that you "took care of them so well so late in the night." All they want to do is eat and drink and to give you money. Make it happen and stop whining.
2)"Separate checks...really?" Yes, really.
I've also been guilty of this one. Most of the places we work in these days have very easy to use computer systems that make getting orders to the kitchen and bar and getting checks to the tables much easier than in some of the places I've worked, with handwritten checks and calculators. If we ring in things properly (usually by using seat numbers to differentiate where everything on the table will go), it is a very simple task to divide the check up properly. Again, give the guest what he/she wants and make them happy. That is your job, first and foremost.
3)"Canadians/Blacks/Asians/Foreigners/Teachers/Old Women/Insert Generic People that don't look like me or look like they are not rich here do not tip."
Ok. Not proud of it, but guilty as charged. And, yet again, bullshit. Some people tip more than others. Some people have more money than others. Some people are more demanding than others. It is easy to stereotype people by the above categories but, for whatever reason, some people just don't tip well. When you get that "bad tip," move on. If we go into a situation thinking that something is going to happen, we often subconsciously do things that make it so. If we treat everyone with an equal amount of courtesy and respect, no matter their ethnic or other identifiers, they will tip us the highest amount that they would ever tip for service. For some people that highest amount might be 10% and for others it might be 50%. I can't control what that percentage is but I can control whether or not a guest will give me more than they usually would. If I make them happy I will ensure this and I will make a consistent 20% to 30% on the floor or bar every shift that I work after tip out. If I do that, I will make more money than most other servers and bartenders and I will not be bitter about my tip. Do I want to make money? Absolutely. The best way to do that is to do the job well. Control what you can -- your attitude, your level of service, how you treat people -- and quit worrying that this type of person or that type of person isn't going to leave you the tip you think you deserve. Try it for a month and tell me you did not make more money than you ever did....
...and finally
4)"I am only doing this until I get a real job."
At this point I'm sure you're not surprised -- I've been guilty of all of these faux pas. But this one can be particularly offensive to a service industry worker that treats what they do with the respect it deserves. This IS a real job. Be professional; give a shit. You can make a great living in this business, especially in a town like Buffalo, and it is a business that is almost recession-proof. I know that you are working on your Masters or you are just waiting for that Bank job to open up and when it does, I wish you well. Until then, be a professional. Make people happy. Show up to work on time and help your fellow staff members with their jobs. You might not want to do this forever, but this is what you do NOW. You are getting paid -- by your employer and your customer -- so earn it. Make some money and enjoy the ride.
Until next time, have a pleasant night!
There is certainly a tense dynamic between service staff and customers that is at the heart of "Beneath the Service" and other industry insider "manisfestos," but, in discussion with a fellow restaurant worker, we agreed that what often starts out as airing grievances, in some cases, can rapidly degrade into a rant excusing one's own shitty service skills. that is never what i want "Beneath the Service" to become, and part of avoiding that is being able to turn a critical eye inward, to ourselves and our practices as industry workers.
Additionally, there is something of a tense relationship between industry workers performing different duties -- the rivalry between the kitchen (the back of the house) and floor staff (the front of the house) is age old. similarly, rivalries exist amongst the host and the servers, servers and bussers, servers and bartenders. well, between servers and everyone, really. within the last week or so alone i've heard industry workers spitting stereotypes about the other stations: " servers don't do enough sidework," "servers don't care about the food, just about money," "bartenders are lazy," etc. etc.
the sad thing is, these wouldn't be stereotypes if they weren't earned in some capacity.
the following is a list of areas in which i've noticed we have room for improvement.
The Stupid Things We Bitch About:
I am usually on the side of my fellow restaurant and service industry workers when it comes to complaints about customers but I have to draw the line at a few complaints that make us seem petty and whiny. Everyone's life would get better if we could work up some self control, and quit inviting the criticism we often deserve.
1)"I can't believe that they just came in 10 minutes before we close!"
I have absolutely been guilty of this. But operating hours are operating hours. The key words in the sentence are "before we close." Before means we are not closed. Not closed means open. Open means there to do business and serve people and put some more money in the register (as well as your pocket). If the sign on your door says open until 10, you should be ready to seat people until 10. Period and end of story. If you don't want to serve folks at 9:50, then change the sign on your door to say "We close at 9:50." The places that I know that have the biggest problem in getting business (and staying open for business) all have/had consistency problems in their hours. Any server or cook worth their salt knows that we depend on the customers for our income and that we never get out of work when the sign on the door says closed. Your job, whatever station you work in a restaurant, is to service the customer. This is what we've signed up for, and what is possible for us to do in order to make customers happy is what should be done. That can mean different things at different times, but in the time between open and close, it is our job. Stop bitching and feed the guest so they can leave and tell everyone how great it was that you "took care of them so well so late in the night." All they want to do is eat and drink and to give you money. Make it happen and stop whining.
2)"Separate checks...really?" Yes, really.
I've also been guilty of this one. Most of the places we work in these days have very easy to use computer systems that make getting orders to the kitchen and bar and getting checks to the tables much easier than in some of the places I've worked, with handwritten checks and calculators. If we ring in things properly (usually by using seat numbers to differentiate where everything on the table will go), it is a very simple task to divide the check up properly. Again, give the guest what he/she wants and make them happy. That is your job, first and foremost.
3)"Canadians/Blacks/Asians/Foreigners/Teachers/Old Women/Insert Generic People that don't look like me or look like they are not rich here do not tip."
Ok. Not proud of it, but guilty as charged. And, yet again, bullshit. Some people tip more than others. Some people have more money than others. Some people are more demanding than others. It is easy to stereotype people by the above categories but, for whatever reason, some people just don't tip well. When you get that "bad tip," move on. If we go into a situation thinking that something is going to happen, we often subconsciously do things that make it so. If we treat everyone with an equal amount of courtesy and respect, no matter their ethnic or other identifiers, they will tip us the highest amount that they would ever tip for service. For some people that highest amount might be 10% and for others it might be 50%. I can't control what that percentage is but I can control whether or not a guest will give me more than they usually would. If I make them happy I will ensure this and I will make a consistent 20% to 30% on the floor or bar every shift that I work after tip out. If I do that, I will make more money than most other servers and bartenders and I will not be bitter about my tip. Do I want to make money? Absolutely. The best way to do that is to do the job well. Control what you can -- your attitude, your level of service, how you treat people -- and quit worrying that this type of person or that type of person isn't going to leave you the tip you think you deserve. Try it for a month and tell me you did not make more money than you ever did....
...and finally
4)"I am only doing this until I get a real job."
At this point I'm sure you're not surprised -- I've been guilty of all of these faux pas. But this one can be particularly offensive to a service industry worker that treats what they do with the respect it deserves. This IS a real job. Be professional; give a shit. You can make a great living in this business, especially in a town like Buffalo, and it is a business that is almost recession-proof. I know that you are working on your Masters or you are just waiting for that Bank job to open up and when it does, I wish you well. Until then, be a professional. Make people happy. Show up to work on time and help your fellow staff members with their jobs. You might not want to do this forever, but this is what you do NOW. You are getting paid -- by your employer and your customer -- so earn it. Make some money and enjoy the ride.
Until next time, have a pleasant night!
Thursday, October 27, 2011
gristy grist -- Tabree's old Elmwood location to be filled?
for being a professional eavesdropper, sometimes my hearing isn't so good.
so when i overheard whisperings about the future plans for Tabree's former Elmwood location, i guzzled my beer, inched on over, and with the natural, covert, black-ops sneaking tactics i was gifted with and have put to general misuse, i learned a little more.
the whispers were from Jill Forster, whose plan is to open a cheese emporium in the intimate space that caps the opposite end of the building which also now houses Epic Lounge.
here's the run down:
the name - not sure if this is a substantiated conclusion, but her business card says Nickel City Cheese & Mercantile
projected date of opening - as soon as january/possibly not until mid-march/who knows
the product - cheese, of course. although it sounds like there will be some cafe style service there, including sandwiches, and...nachos! the store will be carrying pates, and possibly the customary fruits/vegetables that like to keep cheese from getting lonely (i specifically heard olives mentioned). there is also talk of Mac & Cheese being a menu item as well.
additionally, Jill mentioned that we should be on the look out very soon for an olive oil shop to be opening about four storefronts down from her future shop, with which it sounded like she would be developing a professional relationship with once she opened Nickel City Cheese.
anyhow, sounds like fun.
thank God i'm not lactose intolerant.
lastly, as a point of interest only to me, i had to chuckle when i overheard a unanimous trashing of a former employer's flagship Mac & Cheese dish. sometimes palate does win over ego.
**************** update from Jill herself ************************
" Most of what you say is true, but no nachos or cafe! There will be cheese classes on the patio, hopes for beer & wine & specialty groceries & cured meats from my favorite chef, Steve Gedra. Mac & Cheese will change weekly, but none with seafood!"
thanks for clearing up my confusion Jill, and best of luck.
so when i overheard whisperings about the future plans for Tabree's former Elmwood location, i guzzled my beer, inched on over, and with the natural, covert, black-ops sneaking tactics i was gifted with and have put to general misuse, i learned a little more.
the whispers were from Jill Forster, whose plan is to open a cheese emporium in the intimate space that caps the opposite end of the building which also now houses Epic Lounge.
here's the run down:
the name - not sure if this is a substantiated conclusion, but her business card says Nickel City Cheese & Mercantile
projected date of opening - as soon as january/possibly not until mid-march/who knows
the product - cheese, of course.
additionally, Jill mentioned that we should be on the look out very soon for an olive oil shop to be opening about four storefronts down from her future shop, with which it sounded like she would be developing a professional relationship with once she opened Nickel City Cheese.
anyhow, sounds like fun.
thank God i'm not lactose intolerant.
lastly, as a point of interest only to me, i had to chuckle when i overheard a unanimous trashing of a former employer's flagship Mac & Cheese dish. sometimes palate does win over ego.
**************** update from Jill herself ************************
" Most of what you say is true, but no nachos or cafe! There will be cheese classes on the patio, hopes for beer & wine & specialty groceries & cured meats from my favorite chef, Steve Gedra. Mac & Cheese will change weekly, but none with seafood!"
thanks for clearing up my confusion Jill, and best of luck.
Sunday, October 23, 2011
the Rumor's Mill, #2
hello, readers.
there seem to be more of you now since the last time i've posted, and for that i have to give credit to the twitter plugs from both BuffaloEats and BuffaloDotCom, and an interview with BuffaloSpree.com.
i hope i can both validate and sustain the interest.
onto some news:
Cantina Loco - why isn't this place open yet? the projected opening was supposed to be in September was it not? a quick trip to the Allen Street Bar and Grill last night shows that future Loco manager Drew Love is still working in his current position as bartender. One contact of mine speculates that the hold up is possibly due to the contractors and their poorly paced outfitting of the kitchen's ventilation equipment. Another source tells me Cantina Loco's delay in opening is due to the even more poorly paced process it takes to get that little slip of paper from the State Liquor Authority. Is there any Buffalo restaurant that's opened in the last two years that these guys haven't screwed over?
********************************************** update *****************************************************
Mike Andrzejewski (proprietor, Cantina Loco, SeaBar) was kind enough to give us an update on Cantina Loco's delays"
"Hola- Cantina Loco..You are on the right track, Alot of Building ,Construction,Electrical,Plumbing etc ended up being done, as well as refrigeration etc. Kitchen exhaust contractors actually did a great job even though they had to go up 5 stories with the vent. Liqour license is still working and was as much our mistakes as NY>. Take Out will be available soon , then followed by Dining/Bar. Kitchen is practicing at Seabar so were getting closer..... Mike A"
Lagniappes (French Quarter Cafe)/Lucky Dogs - while some of this has been discussed already over twitter, between myself and BuffaloEats, it is ground worth retreading. Its been some time since either of these establishments have had lights on. After a question about whether or not I had any idea if the close was permanent, I checked it out with a former employee of the French Quarter Cafe. My contact said that the close was intended to be temporary -- a "vacation" -- and that Chef Chris Silverstein was looking for a financial partner to help keep the establishments afloat. the request for bar help at the French Quarter was brought to my attention by several friends, but my contact made a point to tell me that the liquor license has been coming "next week" for about six months. The SLA strikes again, eh? None the less, Lagniappe's most recent status updates seem to confirm that they have secured a beer and wine license, and the lights in both establishments should be back on very soon. Hopefully this will turn things around for French Quarter and Lucky Dogs
Truffle Dinners - has anybody noticed there are two of these going down in November? Sunday, November 13th SeaBar is hosting a Truffle Dinner event thrown by Chef Steven Gedra and the folks at Bistro Europa. November 14th, Dinner with Danger is promoting a Truffle Dinner to be held at Torches -- undercutting the ticket price of the Europa/SeaBar dinner by $50. It seems clear this signifies a parting of ways between Bistro Europa and Michael 'Danger' Bernhardt, who had partnered up for the Truffle Dinner last year, but the cause for the falling out is unclear. Murmurs suggest the folks at Europa disagreed with the promoter, over the parameters of his promotional duties and privileges. The conflict seems as much about personalities as it is about demands, but it seems certain that Europa and company are done with Danger. Rumor suggests there is no love lost between Europa and Torches, which makes the latter's partnership with Danger in a Truffle Dinner intended to rival, in every sense of the word, Bistro Europa, seem antagonistic at best.
Rue Franklin - I received a tip off from a contact that the Rue had been sold by its owners, Joel and DeeDee Lippes, and that they had been spotted dining at an Elmwood restaurant with the new buyers. As my contact seemed to have quite a bit of information, including figures about the sale, I decided on a whim to see if that information could offer me any leverage in a conversation with anyone at the Rue, so I went to the source. At the time of the discussion between myself and long time Rue Franklin Chef, Corey Kley, the Rue had been operating under his ownership for about ten days. Chef Kley was quick to insist that Joel and DeeDee are not retiring, but moving on from restaurant work to follow other pursuits. They will, however, function as consultants to the restaurant and its new ownership. Chef Kley intends for very little change in the establishment -- the staff, decor, and direction of the menu will be retained in much the same fashion as it has under its former ownership. While Chef Kley refused to talk numbers, my contact claimed that the Rue, building and business, was for sale at an estimated 2.5 million, and that the figure for the business alone hovered around $500,000. Chef Kley did confirm that the ownership of the building itself remains with the Lippes. Whether or not the contents of the wine cellar is included in the estimated sale price is unclear, but it has been rumored to be appraised at around $40,000 in and of itself.
all right folks.
that's all for now.
thanks for reading. stay tuned for some upcoming features -- i'm hoping to make a "whatever happened to" post soon, and...i may or may not have a surprise up my sleeve, i should know in a few days.
caio caio
-DR
there seem to be more of you now since the last time i've posted, and for that i have to give credit to the twitter plugs from both BuffaloEats and BuffaloDotCom, and an interview with BuffaloSpree.com.
i hope i can both validate and sustain the interest.
onto some news:
Cantina Loco - why isn't this place open yet? the projected opening was supposed to be in September was it not? a quick trip to the Allen Street Bar and Grill last night shows that future Loco manager Drew Love is still working in his current position as bartender. One contact of mine speculates that the hold up is possibly due to the contractors and their poorly paced outfitting of the kitchen's ventilation equipment. Another source tells me Cantina Loco's delay in opening is due to the even more poorly paced process it takes to get that little slip of paper from the State Liquor Authority. Is there any Buffalo restaurant that's opened in the last two years that these guys haven't screwed over?
********************************************** update *****************************************************
Mike Andrzejewski (proprietor, Cantina Loco, SeaBar) was kind enough to give us an update on Cantina Loco's delays"
"Hola- Cantina Loco..You are on the right track, Alot of Building ,Construction,Electrical,Plumbing etc ended up being done, as well as refrigeration etc. Kitchen exhaust contractors actually did a great job even though they had to go up 5 stories with the vent. Liqour license is still working and was as much our mistakes as NY>. Take Out will be available soon , then followed by Dining/Bar. Kitchen is practicing at Seabar so were getting closer..... Mike A"
Lagniappes (French Quarter Cafe)/Lucky Dogs - while some of this has been discussed already over twitter, between myself and BuffaloEats, it is ground worth retreading. Its been some time since either of these establishments have had lights on. After a question about whether or not I had any idea if the close was permanent, I checked it out with a former employee of the French Quarter Cafe. My contact said that the close was intended to be temporary -- a "vacation" -- and that Chef Chris Silverstein was looking for a financial partner to help keep the establishments afloat. the request for bar help at the French Quarter was brought to my attention by several friends, but my contact made a point to tell me that the liquor license has been coming "next week" for about six months. The SLA strikes again, eh? None the less, Lagniappe's most recent status updates seem to confirm that they have secured a beer and wine license, and the lights in both establishments should be back on very soon. Hopefully this will turn things around for French Quarter and Lucky Dogs
Truffle Dinners - has anybody noticed there are two of these going down in November? Sunday, November 13th SeaBar is hosting a Truffle Dinner event thrown by Chef Steven Gedra and the folks at Bistro Europa. November 14th, Dinner with Danger is promoting a Truffle Dinner to be held at Torches -- undercutting the ticket price of the Europa/SeaBar dinner by $50. It seems clear this signifies a parting of ways between Bistro Europa and Michael 'Danger' Bernhardt, who had partnered up for the Truffle Dinner last year, but the cause for the falling out is unclear. Murmurs suggest the folks at Europa disagreed with the promoter, over the parameters of his promotional duties and privileges. The conflict seems as much about personalities as it is about demands, but it seems certain that Europa and company are done with Danger. Rumor suggests there is no love lost between Europa and Torches, which makes the latter's partnership with Danger in a Truffle Dinner intended to rival, in every sense of the word, Bistro Europa, seem antagonistic at best.
Rue Franklin - I received a tip off from a contact that the Rue had been sold by its owners, Joel and DeeDee Lippes, and that they had been spotted dining at an Elmwood restaurant with the new buyers. As my contact seemed to have quite a bit of information, including figures about the sale, I decided on a whim to see if that information could offer me any leverage in a conversation with anyone at the Rue, so I went to the source. At the time of the discussion between myself and long time Rue Franklin Chef, Corey Kley, the Rue had been operating under his ownership for about ten days. Chef Kley was quick to insist that Joel and DeeDee are not retiring, but moving on from restaurant work to follow other pursuits. They will, however, function as consultants to the restaurant and its new ownership. Chef Kley intends for very little change in the establishment -- the staff, decor, and direction of the menu will be retained in much the same fashion as it has under its former ownership. While Chef Kley refused to talk numbers, my contact claimed that the Rue, building and business, was for sale at an estimated 2.5 million, and that the figure for the business alone hovered around $500,000. Chef Kley did confirm that the ownership of the building itself remains with the Lippes. Whether or not the contents of the wine cellar is included in the estimated sale price is unclear, but it has been rumored to be appraised at around $40,000 in and of itself.
all right folks.
that's all for now.
thanks for reading. stay tuned for some upcoming features -- i'm hoping to make a "whatever happened to" post soon, and...i may or may not have a surprise up my sleeve, i should know in a few days.
caio caio
-DR
Sunday, October 16, 2011
Beneath the Service, #1
I've been contemplating this blog feature for some time, now. in fact, before i ever knew i'd be doing a service industry blog, somewhere deep down i knew i'd be writing about all of the annoying things customers do, immortalizing it in digital format on the infallible interwebs rather than just simply bitching about it in the dark, dirty corners of restaurant service alleys with my co-workers.
the problem with finally beginning to write about topic of customer faux pas (...'s. es. 'ses?) is that there are so damn many to choose from. i don't know where to begin. for starters, everything in the movie 'Waiting...' is true. not all the time and not for every restaurant, but i've seen a version of everything in that movie happen in real life.
this feature isn't meant to be a threat. like if you make a mis-step as a customer, we're going to punish you. it isn't meant to be a tutorial, either. what it IS meant to be is an explanation of what is going on in a restaurant beyond the bubble of your table. and, more than anything else, it is meant to be funny. as angry as i might sound, keep that in mind. (angry people are funny, right?)
for this post, the scale that i'm using to gauge the customer annoyingness factor is the SAR scale, or Server Annoyance Rating, which is represented by a place setting:
this set up, here, is a server's dream: simple napkin roll-up, filled with silverware, on top of a bread plate (pumpkin optional). Easy, not a lot of stress involved, not at all confusing. This image equals you, as a table: easygoing, friendly, and not demanding or overbearing. You treat us like people, working a job and doing the best we can.
we'll get to what the other stuff looks like in a minute. first, let's air some grievances.
SEATING:
most people who walk into a restaurant, dine, pay, and leave, have little to no understanding of the mechanisms at work in the restaurant. and every restaurant is different, so the ONE restaurant you worked in for a summer during college isn't going to give you special insight either.
here's what's happening.
if you walk into a restaurant and a host or hostess asks you if you have a reservation, just relax. it does not mean you NEED a reservation, and in fact in many places you don't. what the host is trying to figure out is if you are one of the names on the seating chart, and he or she can mark you as having arrived. we just want to know what's going on in our restaurant so we can be prepared. no one's implying you screwed up by not making a reservation. unless they're implying that, and you did. like, if its Valentine's Day.
this isn't generally annoying enough to register as a blip on the SAR...
...but i've seen people look bewildered and indignant because they were asked if they were expected or not.
your table:
if you have a reservation, that's excellent! it shows forethought and consideration, and it helps the restaurant work that much more efficiently, now that we know to expect you.
if you don't, don't sweat it! we didn't know you were coming, but we're glad you're here now.
either way, you are getting seated at your particular table for a reason. we've planned out the whole dining room, for the whole evening, reservation by reservation. the general rule of thumb is that it takes a table of two approximately 45 minutes to dine; for three or more, we allow for about an hour and a half.
if a restaurant starts serving at 5pm and you show up at 5:01 to an empty dining room, that does not mean you have your choice of seats. usually it is not much of a problem to do some finagling, especially if it's early enough, but don't expect to waltz into any place you choose, pick out some other table other than the one we give you, and expect the phrase "the customer is always right" to be a good enough argument. it isn't. because, soon, this dining room will be full of other customers, and one of them is supposed to be sitting and eating at the table you sat yourself at, and guess what? when he comes in and he doesn't have a table because we "gave it away" to you, he's going to be pissed. he's going to throw a fit, because he made a reservation! he should have a table! why? because "the customer is always right!"
you can't both be right.
but that other guy is more right than you are.
so, please, sit where we seat you.
if you ask to be seated at a different table, don't act like you're entitled to it. recognize that if we are able to, we'll do it, and if we aren't, then there's a good reason why we can't. all of this apart from server rotation schemes.
"but, i don't want to be near the (fill in the blank)"
ok, maybe its too cold/hot under the air vent, and you're a brittle, 80 year old woman. maybe you don't like being next to the bar/doorway/kitchen because its noisy, or people are walking by all of the time, or the bartender is effing ugly. whatever, i don't know. while these are slightly more legitimate excuses for relocating to another table, the biggest problem with these seats you want to get out of so badly is you. other people sit in them after you, and other people sat in them before you got there. they're fine seats.
most of the time it isn't that the seats are bad, its that someone was envisioning some other spot in the dining room they had sat in before -- you are perfectly welcome to request the dark corner or the booth when you make a reservation. but if that's where you want to sit and you don't tell anybody...well....you're SOL.
but if you don't mind waiting at the bar, that table should be ready in about 45 minutes to a half hour...
SALLY ALBRIGHT
when you modify menu items, only billy crystal thinks you're cute.
ok, here's the deal.
everyone has something they like, don't like, prefer not to eat, or are allergic to, and that is a sliding scale for some people, and for others it doesn't budge.
i've modified menu items before, i get it. sometimes blue cheese just sounds better than american cheese on that burger you haven't tasted yet.
most of the time, mods are not that annoying. understand that items appear on the menu because someone created, tested, and approved that menu, and if they're a chef worth their salt at all, its a good idea to at least give their recipe a shot. I realize you're laying down your hard earned money, and you want to enjoy your selection, but every now and again, just as a favor to ol' Dining Rumor, try that dish with the okra in it. LEAVE the tomatoes on there, maybe. be daring and try it WITH the sauce this time. usually the guys in the kitchen know what they're doing, so try to trust them.
but you really need to modify it, huh? ok. no problem. we're pros, here. in most cases, that's not an issue. if you want to modify a salad, i'm going to tell you that 99.9% of the time, it can be done. salads are literally thrown together. anything we have in our kitchen we can usually add to it (we're going to charge you...), and anything you don't want in it is easily left out. the only problem is if it comes with, say, an avocado-ranch dressing, and you don't like avacado. chances are you wouldn't notice anyway, but we can't take the avocado out. if we have regular ranch, we can give that to you, but we might only have avocado ranch. otherwise, i advise a different dressing.
and that's really the problem with mods right there: if its already prepped, its hard to change. we can't take carrots out of the stew, the stew's already made. we can't take the wasabi out of the wasabi mashed potatoes, because we mashed the wasabi right into the potatoes. please don't be upset with us when we are unable to perform the alchemy it would require to remove the garlic from the red sauce, the butter from the butter poached salmon, the whatever-it-is that makes your pee smell funny from your asparagus. some things are just not doable outside of hogwarts school of witchcraft and wizardry.
the other thing? working in a restaurant is an incredibly high-stress experience, especially as a member of the service staff, and here's why -- not only are we dealing with the public, which bends us to points at which we thought we'd break, but we also deal with the kitchen. some kitchens are great. efficient, responsive, just pumping out food, because, hey, we're all in this together. some kitchens suck, some cooks are cranky, some chefs are absurdly egomaniacal. when you ask for a stupid modification like "can i get the special salad as my side salad," (and there are reasons why that is stupid) and i bring that question back to a cranky kitchen, now i've got them pissed at ME. and when i come back to tell you "no" without all of the choice expletives the kitchen staff inevitably attach to it, then i've got you pissed at me too. juggling pissed off patrons in the front and a cranky kitchen in the back is no picnic.
in any other line of work or social interaction, it's considered bad form to shoot the messenger, but we walk around with targets on our backs and we're often getting shot at from both sides of the fence.
don't mistake this for me complaining, or telling you not to ask for what you want to ask for. it is, after all, my job to be put out on account of other people's wishes. that's what i am paid to do.
you are welcome to ask for anything. ask away! but sometimes, no really is just a no. we're not being withholding. we're not keeping all the good ingredients for the special customers. essentially, i am paid to tell you things you don't want to hear as politely as possible. because without me, you'd have to have this conversation with the folks in the back, and they don't bite their tongues as well as i do, i promise you that...
at any rate, if you have a list of ridiculous and insisted-upon modifications, you better plan on faking an orgasm in the middle of the restaurant just to make all the trouble worth it.
ok, one more
WHY TEA IS ANNOYING
its the end of dinner. everyone wants to fill up the corners with a hot post-dining beverage, and some dessert. yum. excellent, great, that's at least an extra ten to fifteen dollars onto the check.
everyone else at the table gets coffee; you order tea.
why is that such a big deal?
simply because of how out of proportion the labor is for the product. coffee? easy. even decaf is easy. we brew it in quantity. in comparison, tea is like nurturing a caterpillar into a butterfly.
coffee -- i can do this several ways. but the best way, if there's a lot of folks at the table, is to stack a tray full of cups, saucers, spoons, cream and sugar, set the table from the tray, and then pour the coffee from a carafe.
x number of coffees and 1 tea -- apart from setting up coffee for everyone else, bringing regular and decaf carafes to the table, you, tea drinker, get your very own little kettle of hot water. which means a third trip back to the table -- inefficient, a little annoying. this goes on a saucer lined with a napkin, quite apart from the cup and saucer -- with lemon? sure...(now i have to cut lemon and go back to your table)...this all while your tea water is cooling and we hope you don't ask for more hot water, as we're juggling some other inevitably more important aspect of a meal at someone else's table. oh, sure -- we have honey.....i'll be right back...with that...for you. in some joints, they'll bring a tea box from which patrons may select their own tea. this excuses the staff from memorizing and rattling off what teas they offer if they have a selection beyond Lipton's black tea, but on occasion it gets a server pinned to a wall. if someone's too old to see, you show them the teas and they ask you what you have anyway. or they can't decide. or don't bother to read whether or not that tea is decaf. or ask if you have any other kinds. or all of the above. lady, its tea. just pick one. someone, somewhere in the dining room is starving because you can't manage to pick out a tea. table 12's food is dying in the window, and whether or not they enjoy their experience at this restaurant, tip well or come back at all is riding on you picking out a tea that's closest to your favorite Celestial Seasonings bullshit flavored tea you stock in your dusty old cupboard at home. pick a goddamn tea!
the worst is going through that process as a banquet server. asking for tea during coffee service at a banquet is like tripping a runner at the finish line of a marathon. so, so close to being done...and then TEA. baaaahhhh!
(pumpkins...not optional)
its fine.
really.
i get it, i like tea as well.
i often drink the kind i like to buy for myself.
in the comfort of my own home.
out of my favorite mug.
alone.
yessirree, that's when tea is best.
really, though. get the tea. but let's both make it as painless as possible, hm?
the problem with finally beginning to write about topic of customer faux pas (...'s. es. 'ses?) is that there are so damn many to choose from. i don't know where to begin. for starters, everything in the movie 'Waiting...' is true. not all the time and not for every restaurant, but i've seen a version of everything in that movie happen in real life.
this feature isn't meant to be a threat. like if you make a mis-step as a customer, we're going to punish you. it isn't meant to be a tutorial, either. what it IS meant to be is an explanation of what is going on in a restaurant beyond the bubble of your table. and, more than anything else, it is meant to be funny. as angry as i might sound, keep that in mind. (angry people are funny, right?)
for this post, the scale that i'm using to gauge the customer annoyingness factor is the SAR scale, or Server Annoyance Rating, which is represented by a place setting:
this set up, here, is a server's dream: simple napkin roll-up, filled with silverware, on top of a bread plate (pumpkin optional). Easy, not a lot of stress involved, not at all confusing. This image equals you, as a table: easygoing, friendly, and not demanding or overbearing. You treat us like people, working a job and doing the best we can.
we'll get to what the other stuff looks like in a minute. first, let's air some grievances.
SEATING:
most people who walk into a restaurant, dine, pay, and leave, have little to no understanding of the mechanisms at work in the restaurant. and every restaurant is different, so the ONE restaurant you worked in for a summer during college isn't going to give you special insight either.
here's what's happening.
if you walk into a restaurant and a host or hostess asks you if you have a reservation, just relax. it does not mean you NEED a reservation, and in fact in many places you don't. what the host is trying to figure out is if you are one of the names on the seating chart, and he or she can mark you as having arrived. we just want to know what's going on in our restaurant so we can be prepared. no one's implying you screwed up by not making a reservation. unless they're implying that, and you did. like, if its Valentine's Day.
this isn't generally annoying enough to register as a blip on the SAR...
...but i've seen people look bewildered and indignant because they were asked if they were expected or not.
your table:
if you have a reservation, that's excellent! it shows forethought and consideration, and it helps the restaurant work that much more efficiently, now that we know to expect you.
if you don't, don't sweat it! we didn't know you were coming, but we're glad you're here now.
either way, you are getting seated at your particular table for a reason. we've planned out the whole dining room, for the whole evening, reservation by reservation. the general rule of thumb is that it takes a table of two approximately 45 minutes to dine; for three or more, we allow for about an hour and a half.
if a restaurant starts serving at 5pm and you show up at 5:01 to an empty dining room, that does not mean you have your choice of seats. usually it is not much of a problem to do some finagling, especially if it's early enough, but don't expect to waltz into any place you choose, pick out some other table other than the one we give you, and expect the phrase "the customer is always right" to be a good enough argument. it isn't. because, soon, this dining room will be full of other customers, and one of them is supposed to be sitting and eating at the table you sat yourself at, and guess what? when he comes in and he doesn't have a table because we "gave it away" to you, he's going to be pissed. he's going to throw a fit, because he made a reservation! he should have a table! why? because "the customer is always right!"
you can't both be right.
but that other guy is more right than you are.
so, please, sit where we seat you.
if you ask to be seated at a different table, don't act like you're entitled to it. recognize that if we are able to, we'll do it, and if we aren't, then there's a good reason why we can't. all of this apart from server rotation schemes.
"but, i don't want to be near the (fill in the blank)"
ok, maybe its too cold/hot under the air vent, and you're a brittle, 80 year old woman. maybe you don't like being next to the bar/doorway/kitchen because its noisy, or people are walking by all of the time, or the bartender is effing ugly. whatever, i don't know. while these are slightly more legitimate excuses for relocating to another table, the biggest problem with these seats you want to get out of so badly is you. other people sit in them after you, and other people sat in them before you got there. they're fine seats.
most of the time it isn't that the seats are bad, its that someone was envisioning some other spot in the dining room they had sat in before -- you are perfectly welcome to request the dark corner or the booth when you make a reservation. but if that's where you want to sit and you don't tell anybody...well....you're SOL.
but if you don't mind waiting at the bar, that table should be ready in about 45 minutes to a half hour...
SALLY ALBRIGHT
when you modify menu items, only billy crystal thinks you're cute.
ok, here's the deal.
everyone has something they like, don't like, prefer not to eat, or are allergic to, and that is a sliding scale for some people, and for others it doesn't budge.
i've modified menu items before, i get it. sometimes blue cheese just sounds better than american cheese on that burger you haven't tasted yet.
most of the time, mods are not that annoying. understand that items appear on the menu because someone created, tested, and approved that menu, and if they're a chef worth their salt at all, its a good idea to at least give their recipe a shot. I realize you're laying down your hard earned money, and you want to enjoy your selection, but every now and again, just as a favor to ol' Dining Rumor, try that dish with the okra in it. LEAVE the tomatoes on there, maybe. be daring and try it WITH the sauce this time. usually the guys in the kitchen know what they're doing, so try to trust them.
but you really need to modify it, huh? ok. no problem. we're pros, here. in most cases, that's not an issue. if you want to modify a salad, i'm going to tell you that 99.9% of the time, it can be done. salads are literally thrown together. anything we have in our kitchen we can usually add to it (we're going to charge you...), and anything you don't want in it is easily left out. the only problem is if it comes with, say, an avocado-ranch dressing, and you don't like avacado. chances are you wouldn't notice anyway, but we can't take the avocado out. if we have regular ranch, we can give that to you, but we might only have avocado ranch. otherwise, i advise a different dressing.
and that's really the problem with mods right there: if its already prepped, its hard to change. we can't take carrots out of the stew, the stew's already made. we can't take the wasabi out of the wasabi mashed potatoes, because we mashed the wasabi right into the potatoes. please don't be upset with us when we are unable to perform the alchemy it would require to remove the garlic from the red sauce, the butter from the butter poached salmon, the whatever-it-is that makes your pee smell funny from your asparagus. some things are just not doable outside of hogwarts school of witchcraft and wizardry.
the other thing? working in a restaurant is an incredibly high-stress experience, especially as a member of the service staff, and here's why -- not only are we dealing with the public, which bends us to points at which we thought we'd break, but we also deal with the kitchen. some kitchens are great. efficient, responsive, just pumping out food, because, hey, we're all in this together. some kitchens suck, some cooks are cranky, some chefs are absurdly egomaniacal. when you ask for a stupid modification like "can i get the special salad as my side salad," (and there are reasons why that is stupid) and i bring that question back to a cranky kitchen, now i've got them pissed at ME. and when i come back to tell you "no" without all of the choice expletives the kitchen staff inevitably attach to it, then i've got you pissed at me too. juggling pissed off patrons in the front and a cranky kitchen in the back is no picnic.
in any other line of work or social interaction, it's considered bad form to shoot the messenger, but we walk around with targets on our backs and we're often getting shot at from both sides of the fence.
don't mistake this for me complaining, or telling you not to ask for what you want to ask for. it is, after all, my job to be put out on account of other people's wishes. that's what i am paid to do.
you are welcome to ask for anything. ask away! but sometimes, no really is just a no. we're not being withholding. we're not keeping all the good ingredients for the special customers. essentially, i am paid to tell you things you don't want to hear as politely as possible. because without me, you'd have to have this conversation with the folks in the back, and they don't bite their tongues as well as i do, i promise you that...
at any rate, if you have a list of ridiculous and insisted-upon modifications, you better plan on faking an orgasm in the middle of the restaurant just to make all the trouble worth it.
ok, one more
WHY TEA IS ANNOYING
its the end of dinner. everyone wants to fill up the corners with a hot post-dining beverage, and some dessert. yum. excellent, great, that's at least an extra ten to fifteen dollars onto the check.
everyone else at the table gets coffee; you order tea.
why is that such a big deal?
simply because of how out of proportion the labor is for the product. coffee? easy. even decaf is easy. we brew it in quantity. in comparison, tea is like nurturing a caterpillar into a butterfly.
coffee -- i can do this several ways. but the best way, if there's a lot of folks at the table, is to stack a tray full of cups, saucers, spoons, cream and sugar, set the table from the tray, and then pour the coffee from a carafe.
x number of coffees and 1 tea -- apart from setting up coffee for everyone else, bringing regular and decaf carafes to the table, you, tea drinker, get your very own little kettle of hot water. which means a third trip back to the table -- inefficient, a little annoying. this goes on a saucer lined with a napkin, quite apart from the cup and saucer -- with lemon? sure...(now i have to cut lemon and go back to your table)...this all while your tea water is cooling and we hope you don't ask for more hot water, as we're juggling some other inevitably more important aspect of a meal at someone else's table. oh, sure -- we have honey.....i'll be right back...with that...for you. in some joints, they'll bring a tea box from which patrons may select their own tea. this excuses the staff from memorizing and rattling off what teas they offer if they have a selection beyond Lipton's black tea, but on occasion it gets a server pinned to a wall. if someone's too old to see, you show them the teas and they ask you what you have anyway. or they can't decide. or don't bother to read whether or not that tea is decaf. or ask if you have any other kinds. or all of the above. lady, its tea. just pick one. someone, somewhere in the dining room is starving because you can't manage to pick out a tea. table 12's food is dying in the window, and whether or not they enjoy their experience at this restaurant, tip well or come back at all is riding on you picking out a tea that's closest to your favorite Celestial Seasonings bullshit flavored tea you stock in your dusty old cupboard at home. pick a goddamn tea!
the worst is going through that process as a banquet server. asking for tea during coffee service at a banquet is like tripping a runner at the finish line of a marathon. so, so close to being done...and then TEA. baaaahhhh!
its fine.
really.
i get it, i like tea as well.
i often drink the kind i like to buy for myself.
in the comfort of my own home.
out of my favorite mug.
alone.
yessirree, that's when tea is best.
really, though. get the tea. but let's both make it as painless as possible, hm?
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