it's a bad year for the world to end.
here are some snippets about what to look forward to in the new year that will perhaps grow up to be full fledged stories all their own, some day. If the fiery Mayan apocalypse doesn't get to them first.
New Years Evolutions
Tidings of Good Will -- Bistro Europa's Chef Steven Gedra and the Nickel City Notable Christa Glenny-Seychew are joining forces for a charity event in hopes to offer assistance to the local farms that need some help keeping Buffalo's restaurants in high style with their home grown products. Locavores unite! More as this story develops...
Football and Food -- The Buffalo News reported earlier in the year that the Left Bank crew is opening an establishment on Hertel Avenue. It has recently come to light that the bar's theme is said to derive from European style soccer bars. Not sure what style of cuisine they'll employ yet, or how upscale it will be, but i'm sure they'll have no trouble packin it in come World Cup season.
Cheese Goes High Tech -- Nickel City Cheese is slated to be the first in Buffalo to start working with a new, iPad based POS system from the guys at the Falcon Tech Group. As higher ups at Falcon Tech put it: "We think this system can and will be a big hit with Buffalo area restaurants due to its ingenuity (all wireless/web based back end/online ordering, etc..) and the fact that the price point is almost 50% of a comparable system from Micros or Aloha." Check out how it works here, it actually looks pretty awesome.
Fat Bob's Changes Barbecue Covered Hands -- Tony Piccione, the owner of the beloved Buffalo BBQ joint has in fact, already retired, leaving the business in the care of his nephew Patrick Ryan. Maybe as his first order of business, he'll dim the lights in there a bit. This is Buffalo, we're not used to so much light.
Into the Mix -- The old location of the Royale Pheasant on Forest Avenue, across from the Richardson Complex, is playing host to a new establishment simply titled "Mix." The bar is said to be themed around a cocktail list heavy on the mixology. Calling all Tom Cruises...
Clean Slate -- Word on the street is that Vera Pizzeria has, in the short while it's been open, paid off the loan it was supposed to take five years to pay off. Five YEARS. Congratulations, Vera crew. Way to kick off what should be an excellent first year.
P.S., anyone interested in starting a pool on whether or not the SLA gives Cantina Loco, NoNoo Ramen, or French Quarter Cafe their liquor licenses before the sky rolls back like a scroll and the moon turns the color of blood?
Thursday, December 29, 2011
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Setting the Record Straight: An Interview with Mike Andrzejewski
A couple weeks ago I made a post here speculating on Cantina Loco's delays, based on conflicting information I was receiving. It seemed to rouse the frustrations of Loco's Mike Andrzejewski, who very rightly pointed out that instead of mucking up the internet with my hare-brained theories, he was available to answer questions if I'd but direct any to him.
So, a change of shorts later, I did.
The following is an interview conducted with Mike A. via e-mail.
I very much appreciate his taking the time to participate in this exercise -- professing to be not much of a computer guy as it is, and having already had to contend with giving an interview with BuffaloEats this past week, I am doubly grateful for his efforts.
I begin, naturally, with the issue of the liquor license....
=================================================================
So, a change of shorts later, I did.
The following is an interview conducted with Mike A. via e-mail.
I very much appreciate his taking the time to participate in this exercise -- professing to be not much of a computer guy as it is, and having already had to contend with giving an interview with BuffaloEats this past week, I am doubly grateful for his efforts.
I begin, naturally, with the issue of the liquor license....
=================================================================
DR: What information can you tell us about the liquor license delays or any problems you may have had with the SLA while trying to open Cantina Loco?
MA: The entire process has been torturous. Everything started off well enough and deteriorated quickly. When filling out the original application I made one somewhat honest misrepresentation and a major oversight in reporting our location in reference to other licensed restaurants. Although it was unintentional, the powers that be felt I was less than honest, and we had to begin the process over, with a second application, correct information and legal documents. It is now pending and we’re hoping it will be accepted.
DR: I reported a couple weeks ago that I heard that Cantina Loco had received the liquor license. Two prominent industry associates of mine alerted me separately, and considering what I know about them, I had no reason to doubt them as sources. Any idea why they may have had what appears to be mistaken information?
MA: There is nobody out there who has any information about licensing prior to the actual license being approved and given to the principals, or denied and listed as inactive., anybody who claims to have anything more in the way of information is frankly full of shit. And anyone can check the status of an application in the SLA website Public Query section.
DR: Have there been any other delays?
MA: Some delays are always expected when doing a project like this; we ended up making some changes in our original plans, and ended up with more work and expense with things like HVAC and mechanical improvements.
DR: Is the dining area complete yet?
MA: Right now the dining room is 96% complete. Kyle Mackewicz, my partner designed most of it. It’s really great.
DR: How are you describing the decor?
MA: Very warm and comfortable, yet very unique and contemporary at the same time. Great lighting and a killer bar. The bar top is an interpretation of classic Day of the Dead art style by my tattoo artist Derrick Hendrickson. Reproduced to about 35 feet long. The windows give a panoramic view of Allen and Elmwood, and that is one of the most vibrant cityscapes in Buffalo.
DR: Will you maintain the take out window after the full opening, or will that be absorbed into the rest of the floor plan?
MA: The take out area will remain an important part of our plan; we can serve customers with takeout more efficiently, while causing less congestion/confusion in the bar & dining room.
DR: What has been the response to the food so far?
MA:Truthfully we've had some mixed responses to the food, a lot of good, some bad, some justifiably so. Customers expect a lot more from us, and we really take honest criticism to heart and try to improve our food every day. Sometimes though, I think that there is an little too much self-serving bullshit out there, and although I know there's room for improvement some people take themselves way to seriously, whether they have ever actually accomplished anything or spend their time just bitching really remains to be seen. I’ll do my very best to provide the best food I can, if someone really doesn't like it - don't return, It may not be for everyone and I'm all right with that. I'm not all right with some tool or tool-ess (is that a word?) telling everyone that they're from (fill in the city, usually L.A. or N.Y.) and they KNOW Mexican, sushi, steak or whatever. Believe me I’ve had some real shit there in your town too, both food and service.
DR: I’ve heard and seen some things about the menu that suggest not simply Mexican food, but Mexican fusion. What influences are you bringing to the table?
MA: The style of food is just going to strive to taste good. I'm sure there will be some fusing of flavors and techniques, but not a real conscious or cloying effort to do so. Obviously Spanish / New World flavors and ideas will prevail, but not really fancy or overly intellectualized. More emphasis on simple and good.
DR: What makes a Polish guy from Buffalo NY consistently search for and seek out things that are "different" like Sushi or Mexican or even classic French style food preparations? What makes you go beyond traditional preparation and into new territory?
MA: I'm often asked about how a Polish guy ends up making sushi etc. I guess the only answer is really that I’m American. I really like to eat, and I eat and cook what I find most exciting. The common thread in all this is really just a love of food. I am thankful every day that I found something I truly love to do. I know that sounds corny but that’s it. I’m a cook, and there isn't much to me after that. I think maybe I just expect more out of myself and my profession, and work at it every day.
DR: How do you see Buffalonians as a "food audience?" Do you think that we are more willing or less willing to try different or new things than your average American (whatever that means)?
MA: The Buffalo food "audience” is overall, from what I can tell, really a reflection of Buffalo as a whole. Somewhat cautious, not really fooled by trends or fashion if it doesn’t make sense to them. Economically I think people here work very hard for their income and expect to be treated well if they choose to give it to someone. I definitely know expectations have risen over the last ten or so years, which is good! I have been lucky enough to work in places that gave me the opportunity to offer a little bit more unusual or unique products, and know it's kind of what people expect from my cooking. I really welcome that.
DR: Given the trends in the foodie world and the inability to grow avocados in Buffalo, how local and regional do you plan on making your menu at Loco? Can you do this and keep the price point where it is (low to very moderate) on the take-out menu?
MA: In a perfect world we would all get our food from the farm down the street. It doesn’t happen here, especially in certain cuisine / styles. I’ll get the best tasting things at the best prices I can. Period. Face it, if someone can bring me great cilantro and peppers for a couple of months, I certainly give my money to him, but in January it’s coming from far away. Just the way it is. I'm not gonna source, octopus, or tuna or reasonably priced skirt steak at Elmwood Bidwell market. So FedEx remains my most useful kitchen tool.
DR: We have an idea of what you'll be doing with the food at Cantina Loco, but what can you tell us about what you're doing with the bar? Will it be higher end? Will it focus on cocktails? Or will it be a beers and shots type of place?
MA: I'm committed to keep prices to a really affordable level, no thoughts of big check averages or fine dining. We want to provide a place that guys who work in restaurants can afford to eat after work. And were going to stay open later a few nights and offer Restaurant Workers Discounts and drink Specials. The bar itself for the most part will be also really reasonable. Although we will offer some really high end Tequilas, and Mescals, as well as flights and specialty cocktails. But if you’re gonna want a stiff one after a rough Saturday service this will be the place to go to. Good beers in frozen mugs, good bartenders, clean bathrooms.
DR: Do you have any comments you'd like to direct to people who are complaining that the name "Cantina Loco" is not proper Spanish?
MA: As far as the name goes, Cantina Loco not being proper Spanish ... Really? No Shit? Guess what- neither am I- or are most of you. It's a name that most of us dumb gringos understand and is purposely a tongue in cheek chuckle at ourselves.... If you want to pick a name, work for about thirty years, put everything you own into your businesses, and work twelve plus hours a day. Buy a Restaurant. But when some asshole says that things like the spelling of Cantina Loco "represent everything that's wrong with Buffalo" and yes someone said that, they can go screw themselves. If the lack of correct language etiquette bothers you, then drive down Delaware.
DR: You have a steakhouse in the works as well as Loco, so, by summer, you will be running a raw seafood joint, a Mexican place, and a steakhouse...what's next, Andrejewski's Ethiopian? How hard is it to move thematically between these concepts without going crazy? Is there something about food and the art of making it that transcends all of these classifications and binaries that we attempt to label restaurants or chefs or cuisines with?
MA: Sorry Ethiopian doesn’t do it for me. But why such diversity? I don’t think I've ever planned it that way, it just grew. Generally speaking, cooking and eating different foods and styles of cuisine seems somewhat natural to me. Although I won’t ever pretend to be an expert in anything. I think that if you approach food from a very basic level, beginning with good techniques, and being honest about your skills what you can do, and practicing what needs improvement is the starting point. Try to get a little bit of understanding where the culture of any given cuisine comes from makes you appreciate it more. Looking for better ingredients, respecting what they are, and learning how they react and how you can manipulate them without destroying what makes them good in the first place. Be critical of what you make, and think about how you can improve it. (It’s almost never "good enough") For God's sake TASTE EVERYTHING! There are no secrets or alchemy in anything we do, mostly common sense. Hard work. Some Chef's like Susur Lee or Robuchon or Jose Andres may have magic but for us it's really just about trying a little harder and getting a lot of joy out of making good food for our guests.
DR: Is there anything we haven't covered that you'd like to touch on? I’d like to open the floor to give you a chance to speak your mind.
MA: All in all I've been really fortunate to have worked for the people I’ve learned from and very happy that I’ve been as accepted by the dining public in Buffalo. I get quite a bit of publicity and notoriety and try not to take it for granted. Most people here are really appreciative of our efforts and that’s really rewarding. I'm really looking forward to the Lafayette project; I truly think it will change Downtown on a huge level. I'm actually honored to be a part of it. There are many really great things happening here, I just hope everyone involved knows when to get out of the way and let Buffalo reach its potential.
FIN.
FIN.
Monday, December 19, 2011
travelogue
it is 4:47 am.
i get back to my hotel room.
i sneak in as quietly as possible. cigarette smoke practically billowing off of me, the smell, the unsteady steps, even the faint glow of the cell phone should on their own all have been enough to disturb my restless nephew and my sister from the ersatz sleep into which they've lightly settled.
i feel like a cartoon mouse, tiptoeing across the room so as not to rouse the waking ire of a slumberous cartoon cat.
i shed my topcoat, shove its reeking mass into the cleft between bed and wall, and collide into my bed, as noiseless as a creaky hotel mattress will allow.
i have just come from a 24 hour franchise diner across the parking lot, and the taste of a texas toast breakfast sandwich lingers, and will linger, in my mouth until morning. sausage from god-knows-where-or-what-animal. molten plastic american cheese. it is cheap, greasy, its eggs slightly overcooked. disgusting. i relish it. i want the taste of mayonnaise in it, but it doesn't occur to me to ask.
i sit at the counter and i drink regular coffee with it, because being this sauced, it won't matter either way.
the waitress is five nothing, rail thin. her hat and her uniform make her look like an awkward scarecrow's daughter. her accent places her as being from somewhere in Hickville, on the banks of the Hick River, in Hickansas. i make suitably awkward conversation with her. i note that she is working a crappy shift. i try to signal that i too, am in this industry. i am not sure she catches on, but most likely she simply does not care. she is not at all my type, but i find myself trying to find some way to flirt with her, if i can. it occurs to me that she is probably banging the cook, so i lay off. she reminds me of someone from home, a little bit.
i drink my coffee.
she gives me my check, and it is under $5.
on the back, a line next to "you have been served by:" bears her cursive scrawl: "Spud." i think: maybe i am too drunk, and i'm reading this wrong. perhaps i am too drunk, but i am not mistaken.
i wonder what her real name is, and how she got tagged with such a potato-y nickname.
i find it adorable, but say nothing and just keep pouring coffee into my mouth.
i only have $10, and i leave it all.
i mean, her name is Spud.
that's worth at least a $5 tip.
i leave.
i cross the parking lot.
i sneak into my hotel room. the electric lock is not quiet.
it is 4:47 am.
i want nothing more than to write about my shitty breakfast sandwich, as if it were unique and momentous, and about my weirdly cute hick waitress.
but i don't.
i crash into bed, and i don't write for days.
i get back to my hotel room.
i sneak in as quietly as possible. cigarette smoke practically billowing off of me, the smell, the unsteady steps, even the faint glow of the cell phone should on their own all have been enough to disturb my restless nephew and my sister from the ersatz sleep into which they've lightly settled.
i feel like a cartoon mouse, tiptoeing across the room so as not to rouse the waking ire of a slumberous cartoon cat.
i shed my topcoat, shove its reeking mass into the cleft between bed and wall, and collide into my bed, as noiseless as a creaky hotel mattress will allow.
i have just come from a 24 hour franchise diner across the parking lot, and the taste of a texas toast breakfast sandwich lingers, and will linger, in my mouth until morning. sausage from god-knows-where-or-what-animal. molten plastic american cheese. it is cheap, greasy, its eggs slightly overcooked. disgusting. i relish it. i want the taste of mayonnaise in it, but it doesn't occur to me to ask.
i sit at the counter and i drink regular coffee with it, because being this sauced, it won't matter either way.
the waitress is five nothing, rail thin. her hat and her uniform make her look like an awkward scarecrow's daughter. her accent places her as being from somewhere in Hickville, on the banks of the Hick River, in Hickansas. i make suitably awkward conversation with her. i note that she is working a crappy shift. i try to signal that i too, am in this industry. i am not sure she catches on, but most likely she simply does not care. she is not at all my type, but i find myself trying to find some way to flirt with her, if i can. it occurs to me that she is probably banging the cook, so i lay off. she reminds me of someone from home, a little bit.
i drink my coffee.
she gives me my check, and it is under $5.
on the back, a line next to "you have been served by:" bears her cursive scrawl: "Spud." i think: maybe i am too drunk, and i'm reading this wrong. perhaps i am too drunk, but i am not mistaken.
i wonder what her real name is, and how she got tagged with such a potato-y nickname.
i find it adorable, but say nothing and just keep pouring coffee into my mouth.
i only have $10, and i leave it all.
i mean, her name is Spud.
that's worth at least a $5 tip.
i leave.
i cross the parking lot.
i sneak into my hotel room. the electric lock is not quiet.
it is 4:47 am.
i want nothing more than to write about my shitty breakfast sandwich, as if it were unique and momentous, and about my weirdly cute hick waitress.
but i don't.
i crash into bed, and i don't write for days.
Tuesday, December 13, 2011
grist -- The Eights, no more.
a few days ago, the above post showed up on the DiningRumor Facebook Page, courtesy, obviously of Kevin O'Connell, Jr., son of famed local personality Kevin O'Connell, and chef at O'Connell's American Bistro. the post was the body of a listing which was found here on craigslist.org, but has since been removed by its author.
you might remember this post, from October, in which i mentioned that O'Connell had been in talks with the ownership at The Eights Bistro. It seems he remembered it too, as that is what he's apparently referencing. I held onto the post for a few days, not being certain this unnamed restaurant was really referencing the Bistro we all know and love for its often creative vegan and vegetarian offerings.
thanks to the info from a rumormonger/industry associate who took some initiative to get to the bottom of things, we're left with no doubt: The Eights is finito.
some things to consider: the craigslist listing is an ad for restaurant space -- the business itself is not for sale, so this is a real estate ad. the next business to show up there likely won't be affiliated or connected with the Eights, unless that's part of their business plan.
also, that the ad has been removed already is pretty interesting. apparently, in the last four days, there's been enough interest in the post to warrant its removal. i'm sure it's been snapped up, and i'm keeping my ears open. i wonder: how soon could we see that place flip? the availability of the space begins New Years day, but it's unrealistic to expect anything up and running that quickly.
let's just hope it doesn't stay empty.
Tuesday, December 6, 2011
...and the rumors mill about...
How do we not have snow on the ground? It wouldn't be the first time we've gone without a white christmas, but negligable snowfall -- the kind that doesn't even stick -- is not the kind of thing we've all grown to love and expect at this time of year. Hmm, perhaps there's really something to this global warming stuff, but we're far from a tropical paradise on this latitude. i think we're all just waiting for the other shoe to drop. isn't this how all the great snow-ins of the last ten years started? while you're all waiting, here's some news.
Cantina Loco- again? -- yes, again. while i reported not so long ago that Loco had its license, a second round of reports -- misinformation? -- has come back to my ears which says that this is indeed not the case. which is strange, because it seems as if some folks at Loco had been disseminating contradictory stories. I've heard a tentative date of something like mid-December for Loco's open, and this was after i'd heard that the license was actually not yet in, as opposed to my first report. Let this be a lesson to you: this is just the way these things go. My thoughts are these: it is entirely possible the liquor license is, if not in hand, then in the mail. I am disinclined to believe the initial report was wrong, but Loco for one reason or another, can't open yet. It also says something that an individual that Loco's hired has in the meantime, been working at SeaBar -- i take it to mean they're close. Really close. Often it's the most minor of things that can keep a restaurant from opening. after a quick visit there, what i'd overheard was that it is a further construction delay in the dining room. if the interior of the place turns out half as cool as their sign indicates it might be, i say take your time and do it right.
Cozumel -- the question no one seemed to ask -- when i'd first heard Cantina Loco was a Mexican/Tequila bar opening on the corner of Elmwood and Allen, my initial thought was...isn't there already a Mexican/Tequila bar, like, a half a block away? Seemed like a weird business move, but knowing that Andrzejewski was involved, i think people took it on faith that Loco would be of such great quality there was nothing to worry about, even from a long standing Elmwood mainstay like Cozumel. or, perhaps, the guys at Loco knew something the rest of us didn't. It seems Cozumel is in its last throes, and has been showing signs that it is facing an imminent but unspecified closing date. Apparently, in fact, it has been closed the last few days, though i haven't been that way recently enough to check. it is supposed to be opening back up today (we'll see) but despite that rumor, a mexican joint that has run out of the mexican basics, and can't pay their employees doesn't have long...especially when that monster opens down the street...
'Hucklebottles' -- okay, okay, i know that's not what the restaurant is going to be called...but if it is, i want royalties. a few more bits of info have come down the pipe since the last post. what i've been told is that Tutu's restaurant concept involves some variation on the noodle bar model. As at Hucklebuckets, the money half of 'Hucklebottles' enterprise will again be Scott Weinstein, and apparently they are looking for a move to a city location, perhaps to provide for them a customer base that a suburban location couldn't. while i am not at all certain what location they've had in mind -- things tend to get garbled in the game of drunken telephone that we play in the service industry -- it sounds as if the 'Hucklebottles' guys have been looking at the old Blu Martini location, on the corner of Main and Goodell. to that i say well done -- the facility looks great, and that block of Main street could use decent place to eat.
Cantina Loco- again? -- yes, again. while i reported not so long ago that Loco had its license, a second round of reports -- misinformation? -- has come back to my ears which says that this is indeed not the case. which is strange, because it seems as if some folks at Loco had been disseminating contradictory stories. I've heard a tentative date of something like mid-December for Loco's open, and this was after i'd heard that the license was actually not yet in, as opposed to my first report. Let this be a lesson to you: this is just the way these things go. My thoughts are these: it is entirely possible the liquor license is, if not in hand, then in the mail. I am disinclined to believe the initial report was wrong, but Loco for one reason or another, can't open yet. It also says something that an individual that Loco's hired has in the meantime, been working at SeaBar -- i take it to mean they're close. Really close. Often it's the most minor of things that can keep a restaurant from opening. after a quick visit there, what i'd overheard was that it is a further construction delay in the dining room. if the interior of the place turns out half as cool as their sign indicates it might be, i say take your time and do it right.
Cozumel -- the question no one seemed to ask -- when i'd first heard Cantina Loco was a Mexican/Tequila bar opening on the corner of Elmwood and Allen, my initial thought was...isn't there already a Mexican/Tequila bar, like, a half a block away? Seemed like a weird business move, but knowing that Andrzejewski was involved, i think people took it on faith that Loco would be of such great quality there was nothing to worry about, even from a long standing Elmwood mainstay like Cozumel. or, perhaps, the guys at Loco knew something the rest of us didn't. It seems Cozumel is in its last throes, and has been showing signs that it is facing an imminent but unspecified closing date. Apparently, in fact, it has been closed the last few days, though i haven't been that way recently enough to check. it is supposed to be opening back up today (we'll see) but despite that rumor, a mexican joint that has run out of the mexican basics, and can't pay their employees doesn't have long...especially when that monster opens down the street...
'Hucklebottles' -- okay, okay, i know that's not what the restaurant is going to be called...but if it is, i want royalties. a few more bits of info have come down the pipe since the last post. what i've been told is that Tutu's restaurant concept involves some variation on the noodle bar model. As at Hucklebuckets, the money half of 'Hucklebottles' enterprise will again be Scott Weinstein, and apparently they are looking for a move to a city location, perhaps to provide for them a customer base that a suburban location couldn't. while i am not at all certain what location they've had in mind -- things tend to get garbled in the game of drunken telephone that we play in the service industry -- it sounds as if the 'Hucklebottles' guys have been looking at the old Blu Martini location, on the corner of Main and Goodell. to that i say well done -- the facility looks great, and that block of Main street could use decent place to eat.
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